We set off 6.00 am back across the glacier to the Bergschund that sits across the bottom of the Lhotse face. Whilst our pace didn't seem fast we didn't take any breaks arriving there in approximately two hours.
Next came the jumaring up the fixed ropes as they zig zigzagged their way across the face and finally to Camp Three. Amazingly I made it in five hours some three hours quicker than last time.
It was obvious that some people had be sleeping in our tent! It was just like Goldie locks and the three bears except that we ever found out who they were. I thought some of my food that I had left had gone but when Brett arrived he said that most of his food plus four pairs of handwarmers had been taken. Now nobody objects to someone using a tent in an emergency but they could easily have radioed us to say what has happened and to us to bring some more food up.
I put on my cannula to get some additional oxygen inside me to try and help me recover and to also give me an appetite (it failed!).
There was lots of jolly banter between the team members and tents probably buoyed by our good time. The ledge was so small the tents had been pitched very close together by neccesity.
The weather report still sounded good and I was certainly looking forward to stepping foot on what was to be new territory.
The afternoon was spent rehydrating and filling water bottles ready for the morning.
Showing posts with label Lhoste. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lhoste. Show all posts
Sunday, 27 May 2012
Saturday, 19 May 2012
Rescue from Camp Three
In line with my policy of delaying bad news by 48 hours the events below took place in the early hours of Thursday morning 17 May and I wrote the post that afternoon.
I was woken by David at 5.50am and told to get dressed and meet him in the comms tent. I could tell by his voice that there was a sense of urgency.
Once there,which didn't take long, he told me that unfortunately one of our Sherpas had been hit by a serac fall close to Camp Three. Because of my mountain rescue training he wanted me to man the radio and to co-ordinate radio traffic between the rescuers, our base camp and the HRA doctors (whose work ive already spoken about) also at BC.
I had heard an avalanche/rockfall earlier at about 5.00am from the Lhotse face but thought nothing of it.
The first call was made at 6.03am and the last to say that the casualty was on his way to Kathmandu at 12.47pm.
Initial reports from the sherpas spoke of two leg injuries, an arm and a head injury.
This is a shortened version.
David left with Adele (the Lhotse leader) at roughly 6.45am taking our extensive medical kit and also picking up some morphine and IV fluids on the way up to the bergschund.
Pasang had left Camp Two immediately on hearing the news and had taken a Sked (portable type of stretcher) up to the casualty.
Apparently the serac fall happened just 50 m from our Camp Three tents and has unfortunately wiped out an number of other teams tents. Thankfully as far as we currently know nobody was sleeping in them at the time.
The sherpa rescue team reached the bottom of the Lhotse face at about 8.45 am where the Sherpa was given some morphine.
Meanwhile we had been liasing with other teams to provide additional man power, Sherpas and medical resources. In the end everybody from our team contributed in some way.
Thankfully certain helicopters can fly to/from Camp Two so we were able to have one on standby at Lukla from around 7.30am. Unfortunately by the time we got the eta of the causality at Camp Two it had been called to another job.
There are no air ambulances here in Nepal and for the helicppter companies 'time is money'. We later learnt that it had gone off to pick up a trekker with non life threatening injuries.
So plan B swung into operation which was to clear a mess tent near the helipad to receive and hopefully stabilise the casualty until the helicopter could arrive. The casualty arrived in camp at 10.30 roughly five and a half hours after the incident.
With the help of a couple of JG team members we found a Dutch doctor and an Indian paramedic in camp who both kindly agreed to assist.
Time was not on our side with the weather as the typical afternoon cloud was beginning to bubble up.
Eventually he was evacuated at 12.24pm back to BC where the doctors assessed him. Whilst this was happening the pilot returned a second time to pick up another Sherpa who was also caught in the serac fall although he had slightly less serious injuries.
The last radio call was to say that the casualty was on his way to Katmandu.
As of now, Thursday lunchtime, we understand that our Sherpa's injuries are a broken left leg, broken left arm and some superficial head injuries. Our concern is of course for any internal injuries.
Our thanks go out to all those who helped in the rescue and we hope he makes a full and speedy recovery.
There is also a quick personal message to the Dartmoor Rescue Group Ashburton section: a really big thank you for all of those hours of training you all put for the benefit of others. Rob now I know what it feels to like in the control vehicle (yes I had a thermos)! To Richard & Tas thanks for the Casulty Care course. Whilst I wasn't hands on (hence much more chance of the casualty surviving) it was great to be able to make some informed suggestions as to the casualty's welfare.
Ps please can I be excused radio relay for a couple of evenings!
I was woken by David at 5.50am and told to get dressed and meet him in the comms tent. I could tell by his voice that there was a sense of urgency.
Once there,which didn't take long, he told me that unfortunately one of our Sherpas had been hit by a serac fall close to Camp Three. Because of my mountain rescue training he wanted me to man the radio and to co-ordinate radio traffic between the rescuers, our base camp and the HRA doctors (whose work ive already spoken about) also at BC.
I had heard an avalanche/rockfall earlier at about 5.00am from the Lhotse face but thought nothing of it.
The first call was made at 6.03am and the last to say that the casualty was on his way to Kathmandu at 12.47pm.
Initial reports from the sherpas spoke of two leg injuries, an arm and a head injury.
This is a shortened version.
David left with Adele (the Lhotse leader) at roughly 6.45am taking our extensive medical kit and also picking up some morphine and IV fluids on the way up to the bergschund.
Pasang had left Camp Two immediately on hearing the news and had taken a Sked (portable type of stretcher) up to the casualty.
Apparently the serac fall happened just 50 m from our Camp Three tents and has unfortunately wiped out an number of other teams tents. Thankfully as far as we currently know nobody was sleeping in them at the time.
The sherpa rescue team reached the bottom of the Lhotse face at about 8.45 am where the Sherpa was given some morphine.
Meanwhile we had been liasing with other teams to provide additional man power, Sherpas and medical resources. In the end everybody from our team contributed in some way.
Thankfully certain helicopters can fly to/from Camp Two so we were able to have one on standby at Lukla from around 7.30am. Unfortunately by the time we got the eta of the causality at Camp Two it had been called to another job.
There are no air ambulances here in Nepal and for the helicppter companies 'time is money'. We later learnt that it had gone off to pick up a trekker with non life threatening injuries.
So plan B swung into operation which was to clear a mess tent near the helipad to receive and hopefully stabilise the casualty until the helicopter could arrive. The casualty arrived in camp at 10.30 roughly five and a half hours after the incident.
With the help of a couple of JG team members we found a Dutch doctor and an Indian paramedic in camp who both kindly agreed to assist.
Time was not on our side with the weather as the typical afternoon cloud was beginning to bubble up.
Eventually he was evacuated at 12.24pm back to BC where the doctors assessed him. Whilst this was happening the pilot returned a second time to pick up another Sherpa who was also caught in the serac fall although he had slightly less serious injuries.
The last radio call was to say that the casualty was on his way to Katmandu.
As of now, Thursday lunchtime, we understand that our Sherpa's injuries are a broken left leg, broken left arm and some superficial head injuries. Our concern is of course for any internal injuries.
Our thanks go out to all those who helped in the rescue and we hope he makes a full and speedy recovery.
There is also a quick personal message to the Dartmoor Rescue Group Ashburton section: a really big thank you for all of those hours of training you all put for the benefit of others. Rob now I know what it feels to like in the control vehicle (yes I had a thermos)! To Richard & Tas thanks for the Casulty Care course. Whilst I wasn't hands on (hence much more chance of the casualty surviving) it was great to be able to make some informed suggestions as to the casualty's welfare.
Ps please can I be excused radio relay for a couple of evenings!
Friday, 18 May 2012
Is this an accident waiting to happen?
I apologise for the quality of the picture but I hope it gives you an idea of the number of people on the Lhotse face just above Camp Three.
Seeing that sight at 8.30 am makes me very pleased that we are still down here at Camp Two.
We are waiting for an updated weather forecast early this afternoon but at present it looks likely that we will be going back down to BC to wait for a second weather window that seems to be opening up around the 26th May. Increasingly strong winds are now forecast starting on the 19th putting a summit bid on the 20/21st out.
Yes it's disappointing but we must be guided by David's experience. There are also a number of other teams who are still sitting it out at BC waiting for the right window.
Monday, 7 May 2012
Back to Camp Two
Sleeping on the oxygen went pretty well once I got used to the cannula. I had seven hours straight sleep and woke feeling ok if a little chilly but I also felt hungry. So next time I might go on the oxygen as soon as we arrive at the Camp to see if it helps with my appetite.
As I feeling slightly cold I put on my down suit and then had a rather fitful couple of hours sleep before we woke up at 5.00 am.
I won't describe the problems here of a 'follow through' at 7100m whilst wearing a down suit, let me just say 'not pleasent'. I was too mean to give them a 'Viking burial', so they are coming down to BC.
I've already told you about the struggle getting up each morning but I've not mentioned about the daily fight I have with my high altitude double boots. It's no exaggeration to say it takes at least six to eight minutes a foot to put each boot on.
Firstly the inner boot is rather like putting on a well fitting Wellington boot as you have to inch your foot in, first your toes, then waggle the tongue a bit, back to the heel - pull, then the tongue again, finally your foot is in but you're now exhausted because of the lack of oxygen! Take a breather for a minute.
Now this is the bit I find hardest getting the inner boot into the outer.
I open the boot fully and insert my toes and all of a sudden there we have it my foot stuck at approximately 45 degrees and it won't budge. There's a small flap/toggle of outer boot insulation that now needs to be pulled tight with all the strength you can muster in your arms whilst at the same time pushing with your leg. It's not just me, watching Brett do up his boots is the same. Whoever designed these boots did so at a factory at sea level!
Finally your inner boot slips in and it's time for another breather before doing up three two inch wide Velcro tabs that hold the inner boot firmly in place.
We left at just after six and seemed to speed down the fixed lines only needing to abseil the very final section. Most of the time I used a 'Sherpa' wrap. This is were you wrap the fixed rope once around an arm (I use my left), and you face forward and walk down the slope ensuring that your crampons are firmly planted. You are also clipped in so in theory shouldn't fall too far, well no more than 50 m!!
We made it back by 8.30am for a welcome breakfast. A far cry from the eight hours up.
David then gave us a debrief: basically most of us weren't quick enough as the next two days to the South Col and the Summit Day are longer and we wouldn't make them on the supplied oxygen. More on this tomorrow.
Also everyone's crampon front pointing technique was poor except for one person's. Ok it's hard for me to say it but it was 'moi'! Well I thought I'd end on a high point.
As I feeling slightly cold I put on my down suit and then had a rather fitful couple of hours sleep before we woke up at 5.00 am.
I won't describe the problems here of a 'follow through' at 7100m whilst wearing a down suit, let me just say 'not pleasent'. I was too mean to give them a 'Viking burial', so they are coming down to BC.
I've already told you about the struggle getting up each morning but I've not mentioned about the daily fight I have with my high altitude double boots. It's no exaggeration to say it takes at least six to eight minutes a foot to put each boot on.
Firstly the inner boot is rather like putting on a well fitting Wellington boot as you have to inch your foot in, first your toes, then waggle the tongue a bit, back to the heel - pull, then the tongue again, finally your foot is in but you're now exhausted because of the lack of oxygen! Take a breather for a minute.
Now this is the bit I find hardest getting the inner boot into the outer.
I open the boot fully and insert my toes and all of a sudden there we have it my foot stuck at approximately 45 degrees and it won't budge. There's a small flap/toggle of outer boot insulation that now needs to be pulled tight with all the strength you can muster in your arms whilst at the same time pushing with your leg. It's not just me, watching Brett do up his boots is the same. Whoever designed these boots did so at a factory at sea level!
Finally your inner boot slips in and it's time for another breather before doing up three two inch wide Velcro tabs that hold the inner boot firmly in place.
We left at just after six and seemed to speed down the fixed lines only needing to abseil the very final section. Most of the time I used a 'Sherpa' wrap. This is were you wrap the fixed rope once around an arm (I use my left), and you face forward and walk down the slope ensuring that your crampons are firmly planted. You are also clipped in so in theory shouldn't fall too far, well no more than 50 m!!
We made it back by 8.30am for a welcome breakfast. A far cry from the eight hours up.
David then gave us a debrief: basically most of us weren't quick enough as the next two days to the South Col and the Summit Day are longer and we wouldn't make them on the supplied oxygen. More on this tomorrow.
Also everyone's crampon front pointing technique was poor except for one person's. Ok it's hard for me to say it but it was 'moi'! Well I thought I'd end on a high point.
Sunday, 6 May 2012
Up to Camp Three - what a slog!
Mother nature smiled on us this morning as after yesterday afternoon's snow and the forecast of more this morning we were convinced we would be returning to BC.
We woke to a cloud free morning and after much discussion about clothing I decided to put on my down suit. Adele and Pasang had theirs on so I took my lead from them. I immediately felt much warmer but would pay the price of being far too warm once the sun hit the Lhotse face.
Our route up the glacier was initially the same as before but then it swung right beneath the the Lhotse face. After about fours hours we were directly underneath the start of the new route. No wonder the sherpas didn't like it. It started with 30 m of 80 degree ice!!!
The route zig zagged it's way up and we were just going slower and slower in the heat ( we'll that's what I like to blame - it wasn' t). We just found it impossibly hard with the lack of oxygen. One foot up and a short rest. If I tried to take five or six consequetive paces I'd slouch over knees for three of four minutes - probably longer. This wasn't a good advert for our suitability for a summit attempt!
To give you a idea about how keen we were to conserve energy I don't think anybody took any pictures on this section of the route!
It took us 8 hours to reach Camp Three, two hours longer than planned. Ok we could be generous and say the new route added an hour. As for the other hour, we just were not fit enough at the altitude.
Since we got here we have desperately being trying to rehydrate. Brett and I are trying to get three litres each down us before we go to sleep. We are also trying to eat abit of food although to be honest our appetites are severely depressed.
Tonight is the first night we will also be sleeping on oxygen. Not much just half a litre a minute.
I've got a slight headache so I'm going to take an Acetazolamide as well.
Perhaps that's why I feeling so exhausted my pulse is 65 but my SpO2 is 52. Respiratory rate 28, height 7150m. That should give the docs something to think about!! Good job we will be back on base camp in 42 hours.
It now 18.30pm and we've just finished boiling up some more water. A litre each for the night - mine's at the end of my sleeping bag along with some inner mitts so that they have some warmth in the morning. We've also filled a litre thermos so that we don't have to bother lighting a stove and melting snow in the morning.
Tonight I'll be sharing my sleeping bag with two pairs of outer gloves, a pair of inner gloves shoved down between my long johns and my underwear whilst across my chest are my thick wool socks which I hope wil be dry in the morning. It's now wonder I had difficulty finding a wife!!
I'm also wearing a balaclava and a hat. The balaclava will hopefully keep the cannula ( plastic tube delivering oxygen) attached to the bottom of nose.
Apologies if there are more spelling errors than usual I'm whacked!
We woke to a cloud free morning and after much discussion about clothing I decided to put on my down suit. Adele and Pasang had theirs on so I took my lead from them. I immediately felt much warmer but would pay the price of being far too warm once the sun hit the Lhotse face.
Our route up the glacier was initially the same as before but then it swung right beneath the the Lhotse face. After about fours hours we were directly underneath the start of the new route. No wonder the sherpas didn't like it. It started with 30 m of 80 degree ice!!!
The route zig zagged it's way up and we were just going slower and slower in the heat ( we'll that's what I like to blame - it wasn' t). We just found it impossibly hard with the lack of oxygen. One foot up and a short rest. If I tried to take five or six consequetive paces I'd slouch over knees for three of four minutes - probably longer. This wasn't a good advert for our suitability for a summit attempt!
To give you a idea about how keen we were to conserve energy I don't think anybody took any pictures on this section of the route!
It took us 8 hours to reach Camp Three, two hours longer than planned. Ok we could be generous and say the new route added an hour. As for the other hour, we just were not fit enough at the altitude.
Since we got here we have desperately being trying to rehydrate. Brett and I are trying to get three litres each down us before we go to sleep. We are also trying to eat abit of food although to be honest our appetites are severely depressed.
Tonight is the first night we will also be sleeping on oxygen. Not much just half a litre a minute.
I've got a slight headache so I'm going to take an Acetazolamide as well.
Perhaps that's why I feeling so exhausted my pulse is 65 but my SpO2 is 52. Respiratory rate 28, height 7150m. That should give the docs something to think about!! Good job we will be back on base camp in 42 hours.
It now 18.30pm and we've just finished boiling up some more water. A litre each for the night - mine's at the end of my sleeping bag along with some inner mitts so that they have some warmth in the morning. We've also filled a litre thermos so that we don't have to bother lighting a stove and melting snow in the morning.
Tonight I'll be sharing my sleeping bag with two pairs of outer gloves, a pair of inner gloves shoved down between my long johns and my underwear whilst across my chest are my thick wool socks which I hope wil be dry in the morning. It's now wonder I had difficulty finding a wife!!
I'm also wearing a balaclava and a hat. The balaclava will hopefully keep the cannula ( plastic tube delivering oxygen) attached to the bottom of nose.
Apologies if there are more spelling errors than usual I'm whacked!
Friday, 4 May 2012
Lots of uncertainty
David joined us for breakfast having left at BC at 2.00am and romping up here in 7 hours.
Apparently there was a big meeting in BC yesterday afternoon amongst the leading teams.
Now please take everything that follows as third hand because that is what it is.
As you know the Lhotse face has a lot of rock fall on it this year (much more than in the previous four or five years). A new route has been put up to the right of the funnel and our Sherpas are up at camp three right now putting up our tents.
The problem lies in now setting the route up to the South Col where there is apparently still more stone fall than usual. The forecast is for some snow during the next three or four afternoons which may help consolidate the rock and stone fall, binding it to the ice below.
The problem is for every trip we take up the mountain the sherpas take five or six. Consequently they are at much greater risk than us. They are also not keen on this new route to the right as it is longer and harder - not something you want when carrying a heavy pack. Also the Shepas never sleep at Camp Three believing it to be bad luck and upsetting the spirits of the Gods. Consequently they go up and down each day to Camp Two or travel on to Camp Four at the South Col (which is not set up yet).
A helicopter pilot has apparently given his flying time for free to allow for photographs to be taken and studied of the upper slopes which is fantastic.
Russell Brice (who runs the Himex team) has apparently said that he will no longer be climbing on the mountain. Whether this is an immediate withdrawl or not I don't know.
The other leading teams are of the opinion that this is perhaps rather hasty given that it it still very early May.
As I've said everything above is third hand.
As of now we are pressing ahead with our Camp three rotation tomorrow morning and then a further night here at Camp Two. We will then return to BC to see what the latest news and weather forecasts are.
Right now though any summit bid wii be late May and perhaps, I must warn you not at all.
Needless to say we are all taking this news in but are confident that whatever David and Pasang decide for us it will be the right decision.
Apparently there was a big meeting in BC yesterday afternoon amongst the leading teams.
Now please take everything that follows as third hand because that is what it is.
As you know the Lhotse face has a lot of rock fall on it this year (much more than in the previous four or five years). A new route has been put up to the right of the funnel and our Sherpas are up at camp three right now putting up our tents.
The problem lies in now setting the route up to the South Col where there is apparently still more stone fall than usual. The forecast is for some snow during the next three or four afternoons which may help consolidate the rock and stone fall, binding it to the ice below.
The problem is for every trip we take up the mountain the sherpas take five or six. Consequently they are at much greater risk than us. They are also not keen on this new route to the right as it is longer and harder - not something you want when carrying a heavy pack. Also the Shepas never sleep at Camp Three believing it to be bad luck and upsetting the spirits of the Gods. Consequently they go up and down each day to Camp Two or travel on to Camp Four at the South Col (which is not set up yet).
A helicopter pilot has apparently given his flying time for free to allow for photographs to be taken and studied of the upper slopes which is fantastic.
Russell Brice (who runs the Himex team) has apparently said that he will no longer be climbing on the mountain. Whether this is an immediate withdrawl or not I don't know.
The other leading teams are of the opinion that this is perhaps rather hasty given that it it still very early May.
As I've said everything above is third hand.
As of now we are pressing ahead with our Camp three rotation tomorrow morning and then a further night here at Camp Two. We will then return to BC to see what the latest news and weather forecasts are.
Right now though any summit bid wii be late May and perhaps, I must warn you not at all.
Needless to say we are all taking this news in but are confident that whatever David and Pasang decide for us it will be the right decision.
Friday, 13 April 2012
First view of the Lhoste face
This morning as part of our acclimatisation process we walked back out of BC and up to the approximate position of BC for those who choose to climb Pumori. I had the Spot2 set to 'track' so you might be able to see our route on the interactive map if it was working ok. The route up was very reminiscent of the route up the side of Pen yr Ole Wen directly from Ogwen Cottage in North Wales (apologies to all Welsh speakers if the spelling is incorrect!) but with only half the oxygen.
Our reward was an excellent view into the upper reaches of the Western Cwm and the sun glistening across the Lhotse face, an 850m wall of ice that has to be climbed to reach the South Col.
Actually the best bit for me was getting a 3G signal from Gorak Shep! Consequently I was able to check my emails and Twitter. Sadly not Facebook though (I know they'll be a number reading this saying 'that's no great loss').
Whilst it not possible to thank you all personally I do enjoy getting the messages so please keep them coming.
For those of you who have kindly posted comments on the blog there is a delay of approx 24 hours as all comments are moderated first. This is primarily to make sure my brothers don't post anything inappropriate! We got back down to BC for lunch and the afternoon has followed its typical (thankfully) lazy pattern.
Well it's been almost three weeks since we left the uk and our beards are coming along nicely. Sadly despite my mother's genes I don't think I'll win best beard of the trip though - David had a head start! (I can afford to be a bit cheeky at Mum's expense as at her age she will have forgotten by the time I get home!!).
Looking forward to tomorrow as after our usual play in the icefall in the morning I'm hoping to meet up with my friend Jeremy who is also out here in Nepal hoping to climb Island Peak.
Now I wonder what film it will be tonight? (don't worry Heather, Top Gun is there waiting to be seen). Last night it was a knock off copy of the Girl with the Dragon Tatoo with Daniel Craig. A couple of the guys found it quite hard to follow but it helps if you've read the book (or trilogy). Best bit for me though is that it means I won't have to take Caroline to see it - a few bob saved! Actually I've already been served with yellow card for some of my observations (humour). She's threatened to change the door locks.
Ah well bye from EBC. Ps yet another avalanche has descended whilst I was checking the above.
Our reward was an excellent view into the upper reaches of the Western Cwm and the sun glistening across the Lhotse face, an 850m wall of ice that has to be climbed to reach the South Col.
Actually the best bit for me was getting a 3G signal from Gorak Shep! Consequently I was able to check my emails and Twitter. Sadly not Facebook though (I know they'll be a number reading this saying 'that's no great loss').
Whilst it not possible to thank you all personally I do enjoy getting the messages so please keep them coming.
For those of you who have kindly posted comments on the blog there is a delay of approx 24 hours as all comments are moderated first. This is primarily to make sure my brothers don't post anything inappropriate! We got back down to BC for lunch and the afternoon has followed its typical (thankfully) lazy pattern.
Well it's been almost three weeks since we left the uk and our beards are coming along nicely. Sadly despite my mother's genes I don't think I'll win best beard of the trip though - David had a head start! (I can afford to be a bit cheeky at Mum's expense as at her age she will have forgotten by the time I get home!!).
Looking forward to tomorrow as after our usual play in the icefall in the morning I'm hoping to meet up with my friend Jeremy who is also out here in Nepal hoping to climb Island Peak.
Now I wonder what film it will be tonight? (don't worry Heather, Top Gun is there waiting to be seen). Last night it was a knock off copy of the Girl with the Dragon Tatoo with Daniel Craig. A couple of the guys found it quite hard to follow but it helps if you've read the book (or trilogy). Best bit for me though is that it means I won't have to take Caroline to see it - a few bob saved! Actually I've already been served with yellow card for some of my observations (humour). She's threatened to change the door locks.
Ah well bye from EBC. Ps yet another avalanche has descended whilst I was checking the above.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)