After a very late night (early morning) I woke at just after five am to finish packing with out a headache.
It seemed odd to be leaving my temporary home of the last sixty days. Not that I'll really miss it - having to stoop every time you wanted to get in or out (even for a short guy like me), the ever changing landscape of the floor as the ice either moved or melted, melting ice dripping on your face in the morning. Yet despite all this it was a sanctuary, your own little area of personal space, and most consequently most welcoming.
The day dawned with blue sky and brilliant sunshine (unlike yesterday which for the first time in the whole trip was cloudy and misty which made for an ominous atmosphere whilst negotiating the ice fall).
Our main bags are going by yak to Lukla over the next three days whilst we will be walking with light rucksacks with some waterproofs and overnight gear.
The walk was uneventful but reasonably fast paced. We passed the Sherpa cemetery just south of Lobuche which was quite moving.
There were some love purple alpine like flowers just below 4500m which made me realise I'd not seen any flowers for the last eight weeks! (Note to self: perhaps flower arranging is the way forward).
The landscape was also just showing signs of a little bit of green in the valley floors, again a colour we'd not seen for eight weeks.
Also whilst descending below 4700/4500m three of the five of us (the rest had got up even earlier to try ang get to Namche Bazaar in one day), all commented how much easier it had suddenly become to breathe. I think this shows that even at BC you are only just surviving.
Stone walls defining field boundaries or yak pens all show that we are slowly but surely returning to civilisation.
Once at our lodge in Pangboche (c3900m) we all ordered yak steak and chips. Despite what seemed to be a good twenty minutes of pounding, the meat still came out rather tough but was nevertheless most enjoyable.
Showing posts with label Base Camp. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Base Camp. Show all posts
Monday, 28 May 2012
Sunday, 27 May 2012
Back in Base Camp!
This morning was really hard work both physically and mentally.
Nobody seemed to have slept well, whether this was because we were over tired or the anticipation of going through the ice fall once more. Especially as Adele, who had summited Lhotse the same day as us, had already gone down to BC the previous day, and warned us of how unstable the ice had become and that parts had been re-routed. All kinds of thoughts sprang to mind - so you climb the highest mountain in the world and them get crushed in an avalanche! Needless to say we took it very gently through the ice fall (perhaps not the best tactic but our legs literally wouldn't carry us quickly). Although it took an hour and a half longer than usual it was with great relief that reached our tents in one piece - well almost!
Muggins here is going to have a scar to remember his ascent by!
We had reached the edge of the ice fall and the morraine on which Everest Base Camp is situated where we always take our crampons off as our camp is about a 15 minute walk away over the rocks. Normally I put my crampons under the lid of my rucksack but today it was too full. I couldn't put them on the outside as I had my sleeping bag dangling off the front of it. (Not very professional I know but my pack was overflowing). So I was tired and lazy and thought, oh well it's not far I'll carry them in my hand. Well of course the inevitable happened I slipped about 20 m from the HRA tent and put a nice puncture wound in the palm of my right hand! It's about a 1 cm wide so I suspect it's about a 1 cm deep.
Rachel one of the doctors patched me up within about three minutes of it happening which is probably momentarily faster than a NHS walk in centre! So apart from feeling a right charlie (no change there then) my hand is fine with no numbness or tingling and fully fuctional (the last parts really for my Dad).
The afternoon was spent showering and packing. It's strange but now all I want to do is be back home and see the family (obviously don't tell them that or I'll be fleeced for something or other or probably three!).
The odd thing is it is only now that the enormity of what we have achieved is sinking in. I suspect a lot is to do with that we are now safely off the mountain and previously we were just mentally and physically too exhausted to think about anything except moving down hill.
I'm hoping to do the Camp Three to Four and summit blog tomorrow evening - 37 hours without sleep.
Nobody seemed to have slept well, whether this was because we were over tired or the anticipation of going through the ice fall once more. Especially as Adele, who had summited Lhotse the same day as us, had already gone down to BC the previous day, and warned us of how unstable the ice had become and that parts had been re-routed. All kinds of thoughts sprang to mind - so you climb the highest mountain in the world and them get crushed in an avalanche! Needless to say we took it very gently through the ice fall (perhaps not the best tactic but our legs literally wouldn't carry us quickly). Although it took an hour and a half longer than usual it was with great relief that reached our tents in one piece - well almost!
Muggins here is going to have a scar to remember his ascent by!
We had reached the edge of the ice fall and the morraine on which Everest Base Camp is situated where we always take our crampons off as our camp is about a 15 minute walk away over the rocks. Normally I put my crampons under the lid of my rucksack but today it was too full. I couldn't put them on the outside as I had my sleeping bag dangling off the front of it. (Not very professional I know but my pack was overflowing). So I was tired and lazy and thought, oh well it's not far I'll carry them in my hand. Well of course the inevitable happened I slipped about 20 m from the HRA tent and put a nice puncture wound in the palm of my right hand! It's about a 1 cm wide so I suspect it's about a 1 cm deep.
Rachel one of the doctors patched me up within about three minutes of it happening which is probably momentarily faster than a NHS walk in centre! So apart from feeling a right charlie (no change there then) my hand is fine with no numbness or tingling and fully fuctional (the last parts really for my Dad).
The afternoon was spent showering and packing. It's strange but now all I want to do is be back home and see the family (obviously don't tell them that or I'll be fleeced for something or other or probably three!).
The odd thing is it is only now that the enormity of what we have achieved is sinking in. I suspect a lot is to do with that we are now safely off the mountain and previously we were just mentally and physically too exhausted to think about anything except moving down hill.
I'm hoping to do the Camp Three to Four and summit blog tomorrow evening - 37 hours without sleep.
Sunday, 20 May 2012
A sad night on Everest
We went to sleep last night with heavy hearts. We had heard reports throughout the late afternoon and into the evening of potential tradgedies unfolding. Pasang told us that lights could still be seen at the south summit from the south col at 7.30 pm local time.
At breakfast David gave us the unconfirmed news that sadly there have been some fatalities.
No doubt the armchair coroners will be quick to summise as to why the deaths occurred but until their teams and climbing sherpas return to base camp this would be pure conjecture. For now our thoughts are with their families.
This is after all the day we were due to summit. The high winds arrived as predicted and whilst they drove some teams back there have been some summits today which is incredible.
The weather forcecast is still indicating a second window opening up on Friday the 25th.
This means we shall return to Camp Two early tomorrow morning, rest for a day, go to Camp Three on Wednesday and Camp Four on Thursday.
It snowed overnight here at base camp and every so often I'd be woken by the snow 'whooshing' off the fly sheet making a sound just like a cheap rocket racing into the sky on bonfire night.
Talking of flysheets. I understand from Pema, our Sirdar, that because the ultra violet light from the sun is so strong here at base camp that after their eight weeks of use the flysheets will have to be replaced.
Not a day for any humour, one of reflection.
No doubt the armchair coroners will be quick to summise as to why the deaths occurred but until their teams and climbing sherpas return to base camp this would be pure conjecture. For now our thoughts are with their families.
This is after all the day we were due to summit. The high winds arrived as predicted and whilst they drove some teams back there have been some summits today which is incredible.
The weather forcecast is still indicating a second window opening up on Friday the 25th.
This means we shall return to Camp Two early tomorrow morning, rest for a day, go to Camp Three on Wednesday and Camp Four on Thursday.
It snowed overnight here at base camp and every so often I'd be woken by the snow 'whooshing' off the fly sheet making a sound just like a cheap rocket racing into the sky on bonfire night.
Talking of flysheets. I understand from Pema, our Sirdar, that because the ultra violet light from the sun is so strong here at base camp that after their eight weeks of use the flysheets will have to be replaced.
Not a day for any humour, one of reflection.
Saturday, 19 May 2012
Back to base camp.
To be honest not the title I would like to have chosen but the right one.
Returning to base camp for possibly less than 48 hours has split the team, having said that everyone in the end chose to come back down. I was happy to come back down as the food is so much better at BC and most importantly the air is thicker. You may recall me saying in an earlier post that the body only deteriorates above circa 5500m (Camp two is at 6350m).
The reasoning for dropping back down was that our sherpa team wanted a rest at a lower altitude following the rescue of a colleague two days ago. There's a separate post on that below but let me just say that Pem is stable. We understand he suffered a broken left femur, left humerous and had to have an operation on his left hand. Everyone is very relieved that his injuries weren't any worse.
In addition the winds are now forecast to increase from this afternoon for the next two days which is contrary to what was predicted when we set off. This is one of the problems of choosing a day to summit. You have to rely on a forecast five days ahead. Just think how well the Met Office do it! Unfortunately you just can't sit it out on the South Col at 8000m, in the death zone, waiting for the right day.
Coupled with the huge numbers going for the current window David has wisely said we will wait.
I don't know if you were able to make out the line of people on yesterday's photo but there could easily have been 100 people all hanging off the same piece of 100 m rope. The danger is not the rope breaking but the anchors coming out which are likely to be either fixed with ice screws or snow stakes both of which are highly susceptible to solar radiation loosening them.
So it's time for a shower, rest and relaxation, and taking on board lots of food and as importantly fluid. I think the best way to describe my body composition at present is like 'streaky bacon' - very little meat but still plenty of fat!
The ice fall continues to surprise and I can only wonder whether the ice fall doctors are on holiday or there's been a Nepalese national holiday!! Two of the ladders are now verging on the dangerous: the crevasse which one of them spans is now only a couple of inches narrower than the ladder itself, whilst on the other the left hand end of the ladder actually no longer bridges the chasm. The ladder just gently rocks 45 degrees at this end! Not for the nervous.
We only saw one avalanche up to our right on the way down.
So now it's a case of watching the weather forecasts that come in around lunchtime on a daily basis. Being selfish, I hope we don't go back up until early Tuesday am giving us an extra day here.
I find even coming down hill exhausting but I suspect that has a lot to do with my knees.
What I am finding hard to convey is just how difficult physically I'm finding this mountain to climb and also how it saps your morale. Every step up is difficult and has you panting for breath. We are basically now two weeks from home which is a lovely thought (if I can find a lock smith!) but we've still got this huge mountain to climb.
I am hopeful that with the right weather window (and based on how I feel compared to two years ago) I can make it. I'm certainly very grateful for all of the support you've kindly given me. Thank you.
Returning to base camp for possibly less than 48 hours has split the team, having said that everyone in the end chose to come back down. I was happy to come back down as the food is so much better at BC and most importantly the air is thicker. You may recall me saying in an earlier post that the body only deteriorates above circa 5500m (Camp two is at 6350m).
The reasoning for dropping back down was that our sherpa team wanted a rest at a lower altitude following the rescue of a colleague two days ago. There's a separate post on that below but let me just say that Pem is stable. We understand he suffered a broken left femur, left humerous and had to have an operation on his left hand. Everyone is very relieved that his injuries weren't any worse.
In addition the winds are now forecast to increase from this afternoon for the next two days which is contrary to what was predicted when we set off. This is one of the problems of choosing a day to summit. You have to rely on a forecast five days ahead. Just think how well the Met Office do it! Unfortunately you just can't sit it out on the South Col at 8000m, in the death zone, waiting for the right day.
Coupled with the huge numbers going for the current window David has wisely said we will wait.
I don't know if you were able to make out the line of people on yesterday's photo but there could easily have been 100 people all hanging off the same piece of 100 m rope. The danger is not the rope breaking but the anchors coming out which are likely to be either fixed with ice screws or snow stakes both of which are highly susceptible to solar radiation loosening them.
So it's time for a shower, rest and relaxation, and taking on board lots of food and as importantly fluid. I think the best way to describe my body composition at present is like 'streaky bacon' - very little meat but still plenty of fat!
The ice fall continues to surprise and I can only wonder whether the ice fall doctors are on holiday or there's been a Nepalese national holiday!! Two of the ladders are now verging on the dangerous: the crevasse which one of them spans is now only a couple of inches narrower than the ladder itself, whilst on the other the left hand end of the ladder actually no longer bridges the chasm. The ladder just gently rocks 45 degrees at this end! Not for the nervous.
We only saw one avalanche up to our right on the way down.
So now it's a case of watching the weather forecasts that come in around lunchtime on a daily basis. Being selfish, I hope we don't go back up until early Tuesday am giving us an extra day here.
I find even coming down hill exhausting but I suspect that has a lot to do with my knees.
What I am finding hard to convey is just how difficult physically I'm finding this mountain to climb and also how it saps your morale. Every step up is difficult and has you panting for breath. We are basically now two weeks from home which is a lovely thought (if I can find a lock smith!) but we've still got this huge mountain to climb.
I am hopeful that with the right weather window (and based on how I feel compared to two years ago) I can make it. I'm certainly very grateful for all of the support you've kindly given me. Thank you.
Tuesday, 15 May 2012
We are off
So this is it the culmination of seven and a half weeks of preparation here in Nepal and countless hours in the gym, cycling and out on the hill before then.
We are planning to move up to Camp Two tomorrow at 1.00 am followed by a rest day. Subject to the weather holding we would then move up to Camp Three on Friday, Camp Four on the South Col on Saturday with a summit bid on Sunday. At least all you insomniacs could follow our progress over Saturday night! I should add though that this is subject to the weather and the rope fixing taking place on the 18th. Am I nervous? You bet, not just from the point of view the danger but also how will I perform above Camp Three. I really don't want a repeat performance of what happened on the North side two years ago. Yes the mountain will still be there next year but I won't be! Thankfully I've not got a bad cough and I should be Hepatitis E free. Hopefully I can just continue to put one foot in front of another. I'm still not thinking about summit day as a lot can happen weather wise over the next five days. So mentally I've broken it down into 8 hours to Camp Two, 7 or 8 hours to Camp Three, 7 hours to Camp Four then14-18 hours return trip to the summit and back. There that doesn't sound quite so bad does it!
We are all packing now, checking gear, replacing batteries and trying to reduce as much weight as possible. Somehow I don't think I'll be getting much sleep before we set off this evening!
We are planning to move up to Camp Two tomorrow at 1.00 am followed by a rest day. Subject to the weather holding we would then move up to Camp Three on Friday, Camp Four on the South Col on Saturday with a summit bid on Sunday. At least all you insomniacs could follow our progress over Saturday night! I should add though that this is subject to the weather and the rope fixing taking place on the 18th. Am I nervous? You bet, not just from the point of view the danger but also how will I perform above Camp Three. I really don't want a repeat performance of what happened on the North side two years ago. Yes the mountain will still be there next year but I won't be! Thankfully I've not got a bad cough and I should be Hepatitis E free. Hopefully I can just continue to put one foot in front of another. I'm still not thinking about summit day as a lot can happen weather wise over the next five days. So mentally I've broken it down into 8 hours to Camp Two, 7 or 8 hours to Camp Three, 7 hours to Camp Four then14-18 hours return trip to the summit and back. There that doesn't sound quite so bad does it!
We are all packing now, checking gear, replacing batteries and trying to reduce as much weight as possible. Somehow I don't think I'll be getting much sleep before we set off this evening!
Top tips
Once again we are waiting for the weather report to come in at around lunchtime.
There's a fairly brisk wind around base camp this morning making it a bit chilly despite the sunshine.
There's a fairly brisk wind around base camp this morning making it a bit chilly despite the sunshine.
Following breakfast which consisted of fruit salad and yoghurt followed by sausages, omelette, beans and toast, I had a shower and did a little bit of washing.
Whilst we are waiting I thought I'd give you some tips if ever you chose to come on an expedition like this. So, in no particular order:
Pack at least a week before you leave. Do not do as I did and end up because of work and bits and pieces not packing until the day before leave. You will forget things (as I did) or bring the wrong things (as I did)!
Whilst you'll be given a kit list expect your clothes and kit to get trashed as they will be used that much more intensively. So budget for another £500 on to the cost of the trip (I'm softening Caroline up here!).
Bring or buy some soft perforated toilet roll for the trek in. None is supplied at the lodges. Don't do as I did and buy a years supply for the family from Lidl just because it was on special offer. It may look great all wrapped up but sadly it's got all the softness of 'Izal' toilet paper (for those old enough to remember it). However unlike 'Izal' it's not dual purpose ie you can't use it as tracing paper!!
Don't pack too many clothes, especially socks and underwear. Washing is really easy (please don't tell Caroline).
Certainly for EBC, make a washing line inside the tent, your clothes will dry that much faster at 35 degrees c in the morning than 3 or 4 degrees c outside. Also once the sun goes in any clothes outside will freeze within minutes.
I've never been a big fan of chemical hand warmers but certainly for the South side bring plenty as you have some very early morning starts.
Wear a 'buff' or face mask as soon as you start trekking. Hopefully it will delay the onset of the dreaded Khumbu cough.
Related to this is buy lots of Strepsils or cough sweets. Strepsils are cheaper in Ktm than back home.
Top washing tip for very dirty clothes ie after 7100m accident. Dampen garment, rub in washing powder then double bag and leave out in the sun for two days. Probably equivalent to a 40 degrees c wash and after rinsing voila perfectly clean clothes. To be fair to Lidl it's their washing powder, so my advice is shop sensibly! Ps their vanilla ice cream is excellent too - for eating not washing!
Buy a cheap fleece sleeping bag liner in Namche Bazaar. I bought a Patagonia one for roughly £6 which is great value and helps keep you that little bit warmer and your base camp bag that bit cleaner. Whilst it says Patagonia on the label it's obviously a fake and the half side zip has broken but for the money it was good value (better value than the Lidl toilet paper and a lot softer!).
My favourite tip for any expedition or indeed holiday is 'Sudocrem'. Basically I use it as the first line of defence on any external graze, spot, chaffing, sun burn etc. It's not just for nappy rash which is when it was probably last used on you!!!
After lunch came the news: we move up to Camp Two very early tomorrow morning!
I'll do a second post later.
Whilst we are waiting I thought I'd give you some tips if ever you chose to come on an expedition like this. So, in no particular order:
Pack at least a week before you leave. Do not do as I did and end up because of work and bits and pieces not packing until the day before leave. You will forget things (as I did) or bring the wrong things (as I did)!
Whilst you'll be given a kit list expect your clothes and kit to get trashed as they will be used that much more intensively. So budget for another £500 on to the cost of the trip (I'm softening Caroline up here!).
Bring or buy some soft perforated toilet roll for the trek in. None is supplied at the lodges. Don't do as I did and buy a years supply for the family from Lidl just because it was on special offer. It may look great all wrapped up but sadly it's got all the softness of 'Izal' toilet paper (for those old enough to remember it). However unlike 'Izal' it's not dual purpose ie you can't use it as tracing paper!!
Don't pack too many clothes, especially socks and underwear. Washing is really easy (please don't tell Caroline).
Certainly for EBC, make a washing line inside the tent, your clothes will dry that much faster at 35 degrees c in the morning than 3 or 4 degrees c outside. Also once the sun goes in any clothes outside will freeze within minutes.
I've never been a big fan of chemical hand warmers but certainly for the South side bring plenty as you have some very early morning starts.
Wear a 'buff' or face mask as soon as you start trekking. Hopefully it will delay the onset of the dreaded Khumbu cough.
Related to this is buy lots of Strepsils or cough sweets. Strepsils are cheaper in Ktm than back home.
Top washing tip for very dirty clothes ie after 7100m accident. Dampen garment, rub in washing powder then double bag and leave out in the sun for two days. Probably equivalent to a 40 degrees c wash and after rinsing voila perfectly clean clothes. To be fair to Lidl it's their washing powder, so my advice is shop sensibly! Ps their vanilla ice cream is excellent too - for eating not washing!
Buy a cheap fleece sleeping bag liner in Namche Bazaar. I bought a Patagonia one for roughly £6 which is great value and helps keep you that little bit warmer and your base camp bag that bit cleaner. Whilst it says Patagonia on the label it's obviously a fake and the half side zip has broken but for the money it was good value (better value than the Lidl toilet paper and a lot softer!).
My favourite tip for any expedition or indeed holiday is 'Sudocrem'. Basically I use it as the first line of defence on any external graze, spot, chaffing, sun burn etc. It's not just for nappy rash which is when it was probably last used on you!!!
After lunch came the news: we move up to Camp Two very early tomorrow morning!
I'll do a second post later.
Monday, 14 May 2012
Any news?
Phil & I were going to go down to Gorak Shep this morning but were told that there might be some news from David re our summit bid so decided to hold fire. There's a new weather report in around mid day so we might learn something after lunch.
Apparently there is a Chilean team who are going for the summit in the next few days without the fixed lines being in place. There are also a few teams who are hoping to literally follow the Sherpa fixing team to the summit (although as far as I know no date has yet been set for this).
So whilst we are waiting for an update a couple of people have asked me about the differences between the two routes, north and south and the two companies.
Firstly on my return I plan to do a side by side comparison of the two routes and also on both companies, Jagged Globe and Adventure Peaks. Obviously this will only reflect my own personal circumstances and observations.
For now though let me very briefly say that despite the dangers of the icefall I've enjoyed the South side route more. How much of this is due to me not being ill (touch wood) or because aesthetically I think it is a nicer route, I'm not sure.
As for the two companies, perhaps it's best summed up by pinching the M & S food slogan for Jagged Globe: 'simply better'. So whilst they may be that bit more expensive, in my experience, you do get what you pay for.
For instance just taking one example: our base camp tents here are larger and a better make (MSR as opposed to Quark). The whole of the ground sheet area has been lined with 5mm foam to keep the cold at bay. As opposed to a cheap foam mattress that offers very little in the way of insulation I've been sleeping on anluxurious brand new Exped insulated mattress that's about 12cm thick and very comfortable. This has then covered with a separate fleece blanket. Finally and it's often the smallest of things that make a big impression (but that's enough about me!) we've each got a Black Diamond lantern for illuminating our tents at night which gives a much better light than our head torches. All of the above just make staying at BC that much more comfortable.
Back to the latest news. David has said there's s 50:50 chance of us going up to Camp two the day after tomorrow. It all depends on the weather forecast for the 20th. At present it could go either way.
Apparently there is a Chilean team who are going for the summit in the next few days without the fixed lines being in place. There are also a few teams who are hoping to literally follow the Sherpa fixing team to the summit (although as far as I know no date has yet been set for this).
So whilst we are waiting for an update a couple of people have asked me about the differences between the two routes, north and south and the two companies.
Firstly on my return I plan to do a side by side comparison of the two routes and also on both companies, Jagged Globe and Adventure Peaks. Obviously this will only reflect my own personal circumstances and observations.
For now though let me very briefly say that despite the dangers of the icefall I've enjoyed the South side route more. How much of this is due to me not being ill (touch wood) or because aesthetically I think it is a nicer route, I'm not sure.
As for the two companies, perhaps it's best summed up by pinching the M & S food slogan for Jagged Globe: 'simply better'. So whilst they may be that bit more expensive, in my experience, you do get what you pay for.
For instance just taking one example: our base camp tents here are larger and a better make (MSR as opposed to Quark). The whole of the ground sheet area has been lined with 5mm foam to keep the cold at bay. As opposed to a cheap foam mattress that offers very little in the way of insulation I've been sleeping on anluxurious brand new Exped insulated mattress that's about 12cm thick and very comfortable. This has then covered with a separate fleece blanket. Finally and it's often the smallest of things that make a big impression (but that's enough about me!) we've each got a Black Diamond lantern for illuminating our tents at night which gives a much better light than our head torches. All of the above just make staying at BC that much more comfortable.
Back to the latest news. David has said there's s 50:50 chance of us going up to Camp two the day after tomorrow. It all depends on the weather forecast for the 20th. At present it could go either way.
 |
| Phil approaching Gorak Shep |
That's it for today. Cheers Ian
Sunday, 13 May 2012
Nepalese recycling
Last night we watched 'Catch me if you can' with Leonardo di Caprio which was entertaining.
During the night there were the usual avalanches/rock falls. The only ones of real concern are those around or from the ice fall and you just hope that nobody has been caught in them.
No significant mountain news this morning except to say that David tried to get to Camp three this morning but was beaten back by the winds. He plans to come back to BC tomorrow. The four and five day weather forecasts aren't giving much confidence yet so we are still playing a waiting game.
I've taken the opportunity to do some more washing (well its more akin to warm rinsing with a bit of agitation but at least the clothes smell of washing powder afterwards!).
Now I'm pretty sure I've mentioned that all of our rubbish is taken off the mountain and carried back down the valley. Well a couple of days ago we saw Pema, our Sirdar, and a Sherpa don a pair of Marigold gloves each and they started to go through bags of rubbish. They separated it into plastic, cans and paper. There's hardly any glass here because of the weight.
The tin cans were then flattened with a very rudimentary sledge hammer to take up less space. According to Pema they will end up in India were they will be recycled back into tin.
No significant mountain news this morning except to say that David tried to get to Camp three this morning but was beaten back by the winds. He plans to come back to BC tomorrow. The four and five day weather forecasts aren't giving much confidence yet so we are still playing a waiting game.
I've taken the opportunity to do some more washing (well its more akin to warm rinsing with a bit of agitation but at least the clothes smell of washing powder afterwards!).
Now I'm pretty sure I've mentioned that all of our rubbish is taken off the mountain and carried back down the valley. Well a couple of days ago we saw Pema, our Sirdar, and a Sherpa don a pair of Marigold gloves each and they started to go through bags of rubbish. They separated it into plastic, cans and paper. There's hardly any glass here because of the weight.
The tin cans were then flattened with a very rudimentary sledge hammer to take up less space. According to Pema they will end up in India were they will be recycled back into tin.
On a different note everyone is showing signs of weight loss. Sadly in the most part it's muscle as the body doesn't metabolise fat well at altitude. So I've yet to develop an Adonis like body with a six pack! In fact I've been given the nickname of 'St Nicholas' on account of my beard and belly. Never mind I've been called a lot worse in my time!
Thankfully my beard will be long gone before Christmas so my normal Scrooge like personality will have returned by then (sorry Victoria and Henrietta!).
Thankfully my beard will be long gone before Christmas so my normal Scrooge like personality will have returned by then (sorry Victoria and Henrietta!).
Saturday, 12 May 2012
Time to stretch those legs
After a couple of days lazing around base camp four of us decided we should go for an acclimatisation walk. So Phil, Brett, Cian and I set off to climb up to camp two on Pumori which we had previously all been to with David shortly after we arrived at BC.
On our way out of camp we could see the Himex team packing up some of their tents and numerous yaks being loaded in preparation for everything to be taken back down the valley to Lukla. Only time will tell whether the decision is the right one.
Whilst it was sunny, the wind was biting which meant we didn't hang around at camp two because of the wind chill. A large lenticular cloud hung over the top of Everest and a horizontal plume of snow could be seen stretching out from the summit indicating wind speeds in excess of 60 knots.
Whilst it was initally difficult to summon up sufficient motivation to go for the walk (I think base camp lassitude sets in very quickly) I'm really pleased I made the effort.
I went on a similar walk two years ago on the north side and performed very badly in relation to Andrew Robertson who was moving like a gazelle. Thankfully today I felt really good and got back to BC with that warm glow of having had a really good work out. I feel so much better than two years ago which is some ways is to be expected as I shouldn't have Hepatitis E this time!! I just hope I can stay well and feel this good when returning to Camps Two and Three.
The weather forecasts are still mixed and I've still no news on when a likely summit attempt will be.
The afternoon has turned cold and windy so I'm in my tent underneath my unzipped sleeping bag trying to keep warm whilst the snow pummels the side of the tent.
David, being the true professional that he is, left BC at 1.00am this morning to go back up to Camp Two. He then plans over the next couple of days to go to Camp Three and above to see exactly what the condition of the route is and importantly the fixing of it.
I've had a couple of requests for reviews of some of the kit that I've been using and whilst I'm very happy to do this I think it'll have to wait until my return. Then I can put a permanent page on my website listing the reviews as well as having access to weights and prices etc. They'll be many who won't know or be the slightest bit interested in the MSR Reactor stove and how it performs at altitude (very well as it happens).
So please bear with me on this one.
For me, the rest of the afternoon will be spent reading and dozing hopefully followed by a film after dinner. I can't believe we've been away from home for seven weeks. There's only three weeks left!
Tomorrow's post will be on recycling Nepalese style!
On our way out of camp we could see the Himex team packing up some of their tents and numerous yaks being loaded in preparation for everything to be taken back down the valley to Lukla. Only time will tell whether the decision is the right one.
Whilst it was sunny, the wind was biting which meant we didn't hang around at camp two because of the wind chill. A large lenticular cloud hung over the top of Everest and a horizontal plume of snow could be seen stretching out from the summit indicating wind speeds in excess of 60 knots.
Whilst it was initally difficult to summon up sufficient motivation to go for the walk (I think base camp lassitude sets in very quickly) I'm really pleased I made the effort.
I went on a similar walk two years ago on the north side and performed very badly in relation to Andrew Robertson who was moving like a gazelle. Thankfully today I felt really good and got back to BC with that warm glow of having had a really good work out. I feel so much better than two years ago which is some ways is to be expected as I shouldn't have Hepatitis E this time!! I just hope I can stay well and feel this good when returning to Camps Two and Three.
The weather forecasts are still mixed and I've still no news on when a likely summit attempt will be.
The afternoon has turned cold and windy so I'm in my tent underneath my unzipped sleeping bag trying to keep warm whilst the snow pummels the side of the tent.
David, being the true professional that he is, left BC at 1.00am this morning to go back up to Camp Two. He then plans over the next couple of days to go to Camp Three and above to see exactly what the condition of the route is and importantly the fixing of it.
I've had a couple of requests for reviews of some of the kit that I've been using and whilst I'm very happy to do this I think it'll have to wait until my return. Then I can put a permanent page on my website listing the reviews as well as having access to weights and prices etc. They'll be many who won't know or be the slightest bit interested in the MSR Reactor stove and how it performs at altitude (very well as it happens).
So please bear with me on this one.
For me, the rest of the afternoon will be spent reading and dozing hopefully followed by a film after dinner. I can't believe we've been away from home for seven weeks. There's only three weeks left!
Tomorrow's post will be on recycling Nepalese style!
Friday, 11 May 2012
The Sun Returns
We woke this morning to a beautiful sunny day with sunshine streaming into my tent just after seven am.
I must have moved my sleeping mat yesterday as there was a rapid drip drip drip of melting condensation on to my left cheek this morning from a tent seam. More effective than any alarm clock and I suspect not far off 'waterboarding' ! It certainly woke me up with a start.
Yesterday I mentioned the creaking ice around my tent. Well yesterday afternoon I found out what it was a prelude to.
Just behind my tent over a small ridge of morraine (it really is only a metre or so) is a large depression (that's the land form not me!) which up until yesterday had a frozen lake in it. Well yesterday afternoon after what sounded like a large 'thud,' a bit like a tree trunk splitting, the frozen lake has gone! It's as though somebody has pulled the plug out of the bottom of the lake. The water has just vanished deep within the glacier.
I must have moved my sleeping mat yesterday as there was a rapid drip drip drip of melting condensation on to my left cheek this morning from a tent seam. More effective than any alarm clock and I suspect not far off 'waterboarding' ! It certainly woke me up with a start.
Yesterday I mentioned the creaking ice around my tent. Well yesterday afternoon I found out what it was a prelude to.
Just behind my tent over a small ridge of morraine (it really is only a metre or so) is a large depression (that's the land form not me!) which up until yesterday had a frozen lake in it. Well yesterday afternoon after what sounded like a large 'thud,' a bit like a tree trunk splitting, the frozen lake has gone! It's as though somebody has pulled the plug out of the bottom of the lake. The water has just vanished deep within the glacier.
After this had happened you can imagine my concern when in the middle of the night (around 2.00am) I not only heard but also more alarmingly felt the ice cracking beneath my tent. You begin to imagine the worst - can a crevasse big enough to swallow up a whole tent really appear just like that? Then I thought about which belongings to save (sat phone first, not to keep going with the blogs you understand but because it's so expensive to replace and it's got a lot of credit on it!). Wait a minute what if my high altitude boots disappear from the front of the tent, I'll never get a chance to summit. It's amazing what rushes through your mind when it's dark. A quick scan with my head torch revealed I was still infact horizontal and everything was intact!
Thankfully after what must have been an hour I dropped back off to sleep. On surveying the tent this morning thankfully only the subsidence on one side has got worse. The cracks only a couple of inches wide!!
We had a very simple breakfast this morning but it was a great to have some variety. Slices of fresh, yes fresh, water melon followed by some freshly baked brioche and jam together with a couple of hard boiled eggs. Adam had worked wonders again.
After breakfast Phil and I sat outside the mess tent drinking coffee and 'chewing the fat'. Once again I can only marvel at the scenery. Yes you can take photographs but they never really capture say: the scale of the seracs, the jumble of ice, much like an upturned box of Lego, that is the ice fall, or the majesty of the peaks. Today really is a stunning day to be in the mountains.
It now looks as though we will be at BC for another week until the winds begin to drop.
David's keen for us not to go 'stir crazy' here at BC and has again suggested we drop down to a lower village for a change of scenery.
Trouble is Adam's food is good, we could pick up a bug from someone else down there, and it's going to cost us some money. All in all most seem happy to stay here and do a day walk every two or three days to hopefully stay in condition.
So not much in the way of humour today but please consider this. I think I've worked out why most of the West is stagnating or in recession and why China isn't.
Apparently, according to the stats, there are around 500 of you very kindly reading my blog daily. Now I suspect a good proportion are doing this in work time. This got me thinking. If everybody in work is just reading somebody's blog for five minutes a day, how many man hours or indeed days are lost every single day! Interestingly not a single person from China is reading my blog!!
Remember though recessions are always caused by somebody else so please continue to read my blog whenever you wish!
Thankfully after what must have been an hour I dropped back off to sleep. On surveying the tent this morning thankfully only the subsidence on one side has got worse. The cracks only a couple of inches wide!!
We had a very simple breakfast this morning but it was a great to have some variety. Slices of fresh, yes fresh, water melon followed by some freshly baked brioche and jam together with a couple of hard boiled eggs. Adam had worked wonders again.
After breakfast Phil and I sat outside the mess tent drinking coffee and 'chewing the fat'. Once again I can only marvel at the scenery. Yes you can take photographs but they never really capture say: the scale of the seracs, the jumble of ice, much like an upturned box of Lego, that is the ice fall, or the majesty of the peaks. Today really is a stunning day to be in the mountains.
It now looks as though we will be at BC for another week until the winds begin to drop.
David's keen for us not to go 'stir crazy' here at BC and has again suggested we drop down to a lower village for a change of scenery.
Trouble is Adam's food is good, we could pick up a bug from someone else down there, and it's going to cost us some money. All in all most seem happy to stay here and do a day walk every two or three days to hopefully stay in condition.
So not much in the way of humour today but please consider this. I think I've worked out why most of the West is stagnating or in recession and why China isn't.
Apparently, according to the stats, there are around 500 of you very kindly reading my blog daily. Now I suspect a good proportion are doing this in work time. This got me thinking. If everybody in work is just reading somebody's blog for five minutes a day, how many man hours or indeed days are lost every single day! Interestingly not a single person from China is reading my blog!!
Remember though recessions are always caused by somebody else so please continue to read my blog whenever you wish!
Thursday, 10 May 2012
Weather delays summit fix
We learnt this morning that the Sherpas who yesterday planned to do a load carry to Camp Four were only able to get to Camp Three because of the weather. Whilst the winds have been light there has been a lot of snow. They left their loads at Camp Three before returning to Camp Two.
Meanwhile the summit fixing team which includes our own Pasang will be returning to BC in the next couple of days until another suitable weather window appears. Yes it's frustrating but there's nothing we can do to change things.
For the first time since arriving at BC it's overcast this morning and snowing very gently. I've had to put my clothes washing plans on hold!
For the first time since arriving at BC it's overcast this morning and snowing very gently. I've had to put my clothes washing plans on hold!
Since we returned a couple of days ago base camp has certainly been warmer during the day with many more small rockfalls off the morraines and much more creaking of the glacier around the tents. Night time temperatures have reached a balmy -10 degrees c! Whilst I've not had to repitch my tent yet it can't be long as my ground sheet has developed a severe case of subsidence on one side as the ice beneath has melted.
It still gets cold in the late afternoon so I have a strange ritual of getting onto my thermals and warm clothes for the evening at around 3.00pm whilst there is still some afternoon warmth.
One of the first things I do each morning is to use the sat phone to check for emails from the family. Unlike a normal email account it actually shows you how many kilobytes each message is and I've become quite adept at guessing the length of the message.
Well this morning I had a short one from Caroline which I assumed would be ' have a good day' , 'don't get too bored' etc.
Now those of you who have been kind enough to follow my blog from the start will know that I'm already on a 'yellow card'.
So I opened the email which was short and to the point: I've changed the locks.
Oh dear, perhaps the Porta Shower Christmas present wasn't such a good idea! Never mind I'm sure a new Dyson will go down better.
Today I'd like to tell you about the excellent work of the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) which was set up in 1973.
There are clinics in Pheriche and Manang as well as the one here at BC which was set up 10 years ago.
The clinic here at BC is manned 24/7 throughout the season ie April and May by three doctors.
This year it's the turn of Ashish Lohani, a doctor from Kathmandu who has a Phd in high alititude medicine; Rachel Anderson an A & E doctor from the UK; and Jenny Pond a rural GP also from the UK. Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa is their base camp manager who has been here since 2003. I can quite understand that there is considerable demand from doctors to offer to work at BC however it is by invitation only. A prerequisite is that the doctors should have practiced in Nepal previously.
It still gets cold in the late afternoon so I have a strange ritual of getting onto my thermals and warm clothes for the evening at around 3.00pm whilst there is still some afternoon warmth.
One of the first things I do each morning is to use the sat phone to check for emails from the family. Unlike a normal email account it actually shows you how many kilobytes each message is and I've become quite adept at guessing the length of the message.
Well this morning I had a short one from Caroline which I assumed would be ' have a good day' , 'don't get too bored' etc.
Now those of you who have been kind enough to follow my blog from the start will know that I'm already on a 'yellow card'.
So I opened the email which was short and to the point: I've changed the locks.
Oh dear, perhaps the Porta Shower Christmas present wasn't such a good idea! Never mind I'm sure a new Dyson will go down better.
Today I'd like to tell you about the excellent work of the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) which was set up in 1973.
There are clinics in Pheriche and Manang as well as the one here at BC which was set up 10 years ago.
The clinic here at BC is manned 24/7 throughout the season ie April and May by three doctors.
This year it's the turn of Ashish Lohani, a doctor from Kathmandu who has a Phd in high alititude medicine; Rachel Anderson an A & E doctor from the UK; and Jenny Pond a rural GP also from the UK. Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa is their base camp manager who has been here since 2003. I can quite understand that there is considerable demand from doctors to offer to work at BC however it is by invitation only. A prerequisite is that the doctors should have practiced in Nepal previously.
 |
| Jenny Pond and Ashish Lohani |
In their first season the HRA saw 140 patients at BC whilst last year, their ninth, they saw 540. Since the third of April this year they have seen 395 patients todate. Ailments range from those that you might go to see your GP about ie an in growing toenail, the Khumbu cough to that of
an A and E department ie a heart attack or cerebral oedema.
They have their own MASH style (I'm showing my age now) hospital tent where they can carry out minor procedures or alternatively a helicopter evacuation to Kathmandu can be arranged at short notice.
Their work is funded by charging Western companies $100 per person (which Jagged Globe have kindly paid on our behalf). This enables a climber to go and see the doctors as many times as they like for a free consultation and they only have to pay for the medication prescribed.
The great benefit for the Sherpas and Nepalese camp staff is that they receive free consultations and medication at a substantially subsidised rate.
Some of the Western companies have their own Expedition doctors but they do make a kind donation to the work of the HRA.
Having tried to climb Everest from the North side I can honestly say what a really fantastic facility this is to have on site. A bonus is that they are really friendly too.
Thank you to Ashish for giving up some of his valuable time this morning for the interview.
This qoute was kindly passed onto me: 'You can tell the climbers are feeing a bit more secure. The blogs have a lighter feel to them and the emails I am receiving are encouraging. But Ian Ridley continues to set the mark, this time with a in-depth look at the Jagged Globe showers at base camp that would make the BBC envious.'. Surprisingly it wasn't written by my mother but by Alan Arnette!
an A and E department ie a heart attack or cerebral oedema.
They have their own MASH style (I'm showing my age now) hospital tent where they can carry out minor procedures or alternatively a helicopter evacuation to Kathmandu can be arranged at short notice.
Their work is funded by charging Western companies $100 per person (which Jagged Globe have kindly paid on our behalf). This enables a climber to go and see the doctors as many times as they like for a free consultation and they only have to pay for the medication prescribed.
The great benefit for the Sherpas and Nepalese camp staff is that they receive free consultations and medication at a substantially subsidised rate.
Some of the Western companies have their own Expedition doctors but they do make a kind donation to the work of the HRA.
Having tried to climb Everest from the North side I can honestly say what a really fantastic facility this is to have on site. A bonus is that they are really friendly too.
Thank you to Ashish for giving up some of his valuable time this morning for the interview.
This qoute was kindly passed onto me: 'You can tell the climbers are feeing a bit more secure. The blogs have a lighter feel to them and the emails I am receiving are encouraging. But Ian Ridley continues to set the mark, this time with a in-depth look at the Jagged Globe showers at base camp that would make the BBC envious.'. Surprisingly it wasn't written by my mother but by Alan Arnette!
Wednesday, 9 May 2012
Shower time
If you've been looking at my Tweets you'll know that I've been down to Gorak Shep this morning along with Philip and Nick.
Hopefully I got around to answering most emails/tweets and Facebook.
We got back here to BC in one hour and seven minutes which I think is eight minutes faster than last time which is encouraging. Will we get it down to one hour?
I've been on three trips to the Himalaya and I'm pleased to say that JG have the best shower system I've come across.
They have a two compartent shower tent, one side for you to change in complete with canvas stool to sit on whilst you dry your feet and the other side is for showering complete with non slip matting - health and safety even extends to Nepal.
Ok so what do you use as a shower? Well this is the really clever yet oh so simple solution - a Hozelock Porta Shower. This is essentially what you would normally fill with insecticide and spray your roses with to get rid of black fly.
Here's a picture of Adam, our great Base Camp manager and chef (possibly the hardest working person here) demonstrating its use (obviously outside of the shower tent).
Hopefully I got around to answering most emails/tweets and Facebook.
We got back here to BC in one hour and seven minutes which I think is eight minutes faster than last time which is encouraging. Will we get it down to one hour?
I've been on three trips to the Himalaya and I'm pleased to say that JG have the best shower system I've come across.
They have a two compartent shower tent, one side for you to change in complete with canvas stool to sit on whilst you dry your feet and the other side is for showering complete with non slip matting - health and safety even extends to Nepal.
Ok so what do you use as a shower? Well this is the really clever yet oh so simple solution - a Hozelock Porta Shower. This is essentially what you would normally fill with insecticide and spray your roses with to get rid of black fly.
Here's a picture of Adam, our great Base Camp manager and chef (possibly the hardest working person here) demonstrating its use (obviously outside of the shower tent).
Back to the Porta Shower: this holds 7 litres of liquid, in our case hot water although I do wonder whether after a week of not washing something stronger might not be more appropriate. Say something just to take the top layer of skin off!
Like you insecticide sprayer you just pump it up and the small shower rose provides an excellent shower. Ok it's not a 'deluge' but it is surprisingly effective.
This got me thinking, firstly Caroline my wife always showers. We have a power shower which I'm convinced uses more water than a bath. Now as we are on a water meter one of these Porta Showers could be a great water saver (I'll even offer to pump it up as I know it's going to be a difficult sell!). Please don't tell her but I think it will be a great Christmas present.
So often in life one thing leads to another and every so often you have a eureka moment.
Well I had one last night. I've worked out how to cheaply and effectively solve the water shortage crisis in Eastern and Southern England. I appreciate that the UK has just had its wettest April on record but it may not be enough to stave off drought restrictions.
This morning I sent an email to the Prime Ministers Office from my management company:
Water And Natural Kinetic Energy Resources, outlying my plans.
I do a bit on wave energy too.
Every household in the affected areas should be issued with a Porta Shower at the taxpayers expense. I suggested a suitable photo opportunity might be Vince Cable in an Edwardian bathing costume and hat being showered outside the Houses of Parliament.
I've done my research: a management consultant will charge at least 10% (Heather what would Pwc charge?) - ok then 15%. Now I checked on Amazon this morning and they retail for £25. I'm sure Hozelock would give the Government a better volume discount than the 9% which is what Amazon are offering, say nearer a third. Also I'm pretty sure Hozelock are a UK company and this could single handedly help to reverse the recession.
So say their are 45 million households in the UK, of these at least 50% are in the affected areas (sorry Scotland and Wales but these areas are fairly sparsely populated). So 22.5 million times say £15 per Porta Shower equals a contract worth £337.5 million. Add my management consultancy fee of £50.6 million and the whole water crisis is averted at a cost of circa £390 million.
This in terms of Government spending is a proverbial 'drop in the ocean ' if you'll excuse the pun. No need to build new canals, ship water by road from Scotland. This is the green solution!
Ok, so the last seven paragraphs have been a bit of fun. Even all the way over here I can hear you scream 'the sooner that boy gets back up the hill the better!!!'
Tuesday, 8 May 2012
Return to Base Camp
We set off from Camp Two at 5.30am and walked down the Westen Cwm. It was a beautiful clear morning and we had the glacier to ourselves. In the distance the sun was rising over on Pumori whilst a cool wind drove against our backs having swept down the icy Lhotse face. It was one of those mornings to savour and well worth the discomfort of such an early start.
An hour earlier we had packed away and damp and ice rimmed sleeping bags, deflated our thermarests and tidied up our tents. All this just in case they get hit by an avalanche. Apparently it's easier to find your belongings if they are in stuff sacs.
We made it down to Camp One in about an hour and left our walking poles in the one tent we have remaining there and donned our helmets.
I was beginning to wonder were all the Sherpas where as by this stage we hadn't passed any which I thought odd. I needn't have fretted as within 45 minutes there was a steady stream of them slowly but surely making their way up through the ice fall.
An hour earlier we had packed away and damp and ice rimmed sleeping bags, deflated our thermarests and tidied up our tents. All this just in case they get hit by an avalanche. Apparently it's easier to find your belongings if they are in stuff sacs.
We made it down to Camp One in about an hour and left our walking poles in the one tent we have remaining there and donned our helmets.
I was beginning to wonder were all the Sherpas where as by this stage we hadn't passed any which I thought odd. I needn't have fretted as within 45 minutes there was a steady stream of them slowly but surely making their way up through the ice fall.
 |
| Photo of a triple ladder spanning a deep crevasse (top). A subsequent avalanche changed the route. I was standing on a snow bridge when I took it (not for long though!). |
David announced that we would be here for at least six days perhaps up to ten or twelve depending upon how the rope fixing and supply of Camp Four go. It also depends upon a suitable weather window. We do have the option of going down to one of the lower villages to enjoy some richer oxygenated air but I think most of us are going to stay here.
It's just below 5500m so our bodies shouldn't deteriorate and we are pretty well acclimatised to this height. Secondly Adam's food is much better than in the lodges.
We will make day trips to ensure we don't get 'bed sores' just lying around in BC.
Indeed after some much needed washing tomorrow I'm popping down to Gorak Shep to get some good Internet access and to perhaps add a couple of books to my Kindle.
David has said that we don't need to go back up to Camp Three before our summit bid as he would rather we all get as strong as possible ready for the 'toughest five days of your life!'.
Two or three days I know I can cope with. Five without adequate food and rehydration - well we will have to see.
So that leaves me with a bit of a quandary - how am I going to keep you interested in my endeavours when the next week or so is going to be spent here at BC? Suggestions please!
Personally I'm glad of the rest period as hopefully it'll allow me to get over my stomach bug.
Scary as it sounds the next time we venture up through the icefall we will hopefully be on our way to the summit!
Wednesday, 2 May 2012
Mask Demonstration
We've been eating extremely well over the last 24 hours. For lunch yesterday we had double burger with bacon, smoked applewood cheese and chips. Whilst for dinner we had lamb shank with cheesey mash potatoe and vegetables. I think Adam was doing his best to feed us up before our scheduled departure.
He's got a couple of well earned days off now.
For the first time this afternoon I heard some bird song just outside my tent which I hope may be an omen for some warmer and perhaps better weather!
Ted Atkins of Top Out oxygen masks called by this afternoon to give us another demonstration and for us to get used to fitting the regulators to the oxygen cylinders. As you can imagine the cylinders need to be handled with caution and it's best not to have any naked flames around! This year's mask has been updated and now has the oxygen reservoir bottle actually attached directly to it (you may just make it out to the left of Ted's face). This makes for a much more compact unit as two years ago the reservoir hung off the mask a bit like an elephants trunk where it was vulnerable to damage. Indeed it was a damaged reservoir that unfortunately put paid to Josh Lewsey's summit bid that same trip.
Ted also said that it is a great route that we were doing and that we should take time to enjoy it! Don't just watch the person in front's feet. Sounds like good advice.
We are now all packing our packs and getting ready for an early start tomorrow.
He's got a couple of well earned days off now.
For the first time this afternoon I heard some bird song just outside my tent which I hope may be an omen for some warmer and perhaps better weather!
Ted Atkins of Top Out oxygen masks called by this afternoon to give us another demonstration and for us to get used to fitting the regulators to the oxygen cylinders. As you can imagine the cylinders need to be handled with caution and it's best not to have any naked flames around! This year's mask has been updated and now has the oxygen reservoir bottle actually attached directly to it (you may just make it out to the left of Ted's face). This makes for a much more compact unit as two years ago the reservoir hung off the mask a bit like an elephants trunk where it was vulnerable to damage. Indeed it was a damaged reservoir that unfortunately put paid to Josh Lewsey's summit bid that same trip.
Ted also said that it is a great route that we were doing and that we should take time to enjoy it! Don't just watch the person in front's feet. Sounds like good advice.
 |
| Ted Atkins demonstrating the TopOut Mask |
Tuesday, 1 May 2012
Camp two postponed again
If you have read my earlier post regarding the condition of the Lhotse face you'll know it's not good (if you haven't I suggest you read that first and then return to this post).
The current position is that the main Teams have decided that the current route is too dangerous. Apparently one Sherpa has 10 stitches in his head after a rock completely smashed his helmet and a Russian has a broken arm.
A team of Western guides are going to recee the face and try and find a safer alternative to the right of the normal route tomorrow. It is currently thought that the existing position of Camp Three is as safe/unsafe as previous years depending upon your perspective.
Once found, ropes will need to be fixed again which will take another day or so. The upshot is that we will spend another day here in BC. To be fair it's much more comfortable down here.
I think everyone will appreciate that this has got to be the right way forward. What is slightly alarming is that apparently some of the smaller teams are still continuing to use the current route.
Actually now might be a good time to explain the organising of the fixed ropes.
In the past it used to be a very adhoc arrangement between the larger teams who would agree amongst themselves which part of the mountain they would fix. The smaller teams would basically just catch a ride and not make any contribution.
When Russell Brice moved over from the North side (he operates one of the largest and most comprehensive expeditions on Everest - and most expensive) he got all of the teams together. Basically every team at BC has to use a Nepalese tourist registered trekking company. They each pay Russell a pro rata amount dependent upon team size for 10,000m of new 10mm static rope, I don't know how many new ice screws and stakes but it will be in the hundreds if not thousands that are purchased, I understand, new each year from the USA.
Russell then calls a meeting of all the teams to organise the logistics of getting all of this kit up to Camp Two (the ropes come in 200m lengths - for those who know how much a 50m rope weighs imagine having to carry four of them) as well as the allocation of Sherpas to fix the routes. This way all teams make a fair contribution.
We all hope that a suitable safe route is found and that there are no more injuries. Another day or so here at BC is a very small price for us to pay.
On a unrelated point the Lhotse team returned from Camp Two this morning and said how cold and windy it had been. They had also seen a helicopter practising a landing and take off which is great testament to the skill of the pilot at 6400m. Reassuring if ever a medical evacuation is needed.
The current position is that the main Teams have decided that the current route is too dangerous. Apparently one Sherpa has 10 stitches in his head after a rock completely smashed his helmet and a Russian has a broken arm.
A team of Western guides are going to recee the face and try and find a safer alternative to the right of the normal route tomorrow. It is currently thought that the existing position of Camp Three is as safe/unsafe as previous years depending upon your perspective.
Once found, ropes will need to be fixed again which will take another day or so. The upshot is that we will spend another day here in BC. To be fair it's much more comfortable down here.
I think everyone will appreciate that this has got to be the right way forward. What is slightly alarming is that apparently some of the smaller teams are still continuing to use the current route.
Actually now might be a good time to explain the organising of the fixed ropes.
In the past it used to be a very adhoc arrangement between the larger teams who would agree amongst themselves which part of the mountain they would fix. The smaller teams would basically just catch a ride and not make any contribution.
When Russell Brice moved over from the North side (he operates one of the largest and most comprehensive expeditions on Everest - and most expensive) he got all of the teams together. Basically every team at BC has to use a Nepalese tourist registered trekking company. They each pay Russell a pro rata amount dependent upon team size for 10,000m of new 10mm static rope, I don't know how many new ice screws and stakes but it will be in the hundreds if not thousands that are purchased, I understand, new each year from the USA.
Russell then calls a meeting of all the teams to organise the logistics of getting all of this kit up to Camp Two (the ropes come in 200m lengths - for those who know how much a 50m rope weighs imagine having to carry four of them) as well as the allocation of Sherpas to fix the routes. This way all teams make a fair contribution.
We all hope that a suitable safe route is found and that there are no more injuries. Another day or so here at BC is a very small price for us to pay.
On a unrelated point the Lhotse team returned from Camp Two this morning and said how cold and windy it had been. They had also seen a helicopter practising a landing and take off which is great testament to the skill of the pilot at 6400m. Reassuring if ever a medical evacuation is needed.
Potential Delays
We all had our 'half term reports' yesterday afternoon and I'm pleased to report that David thinks that if we keep going as we are, stay healthy and get the right weather break all of us should summit which is excellent news.
So our afternoon elation was then tempered by the news, after dinner, that there are potential delays ahead.
Whilst it's the high winds higher up that have delayed our departure by a day. The winds are due to abate on Friday which is when we plan to go to Camp Three and sleep overnight. The problem is the winds have prevented the Sherpas from erecting the tents up there. The current plan is that they'll do that on the Friday as well (they'll be much quicker than us).
There is however a larger problem that needs to be sorted out in the next few days.
The Lhotse face is particularly icy this year and there are a lot of stones and rocks either on or just underneath the surface. Consequently there is an increased risk of rock and stone fall and hence injury.
The position of the current fixed rope up to Camp Three is close to a natural funnel (think inverted) making the lower section apparently quite dangerous.
The big six teams (of which JG are one) and their Sherpas are currently discussing the best way forward. Options include moving the fixed ropes 100m to the right but this would then be over substantially steeper terrain (several vertical sections). The Sherpas are not keen on this as it makes the route much harder for them and their load carrying. Another option is to stop all climbing above Camp Two for a day whilst a group of Sherpas go up the existing route but spaced out horizontally to dislodge the stones and rocks.
Unlike crossing the Grand Couloir on the way up to the Goutier Hut on Mont Blanc you only have to dodge any rockfall for 45-60 seconds as you travel across the couloir. Here we are going to be underneath potential stonefall for 3-5 hours!
Neither option is perfect but these delays, even of a couple of days, mean that a summit bid of mid May has slipped away and we are now probably looking at 20-25 May. Frustrating for us as this will inevitably lead to more people attempting the summit on any given day and potential delays on bottlenecks such as the Hilary Step.
As David said 'it's a complicated mountain'.
What with the unstable icefall, the 2012 season looks like it has the potential to be memorable for all the wrong reasons.
Needless to say the team are rather subdued today and I can't even think of anything humorous to end on.
Next post hopefully from Camp Two tommorrow.
Actually I've just thought of something to brighten up the day for all you male readers!
My favourite Albert Einstein quote:
Some men spend a lifetime in an attempt to comprehend the complexities of women. Others preoccupy themselves with simpler tasks such as understanding the theory of relativity.
So our afternoon elation was then tempered by the news, after dinner, that there are potential delays ahead.
Whilst it's the high winds higher up that have delayed our departure by a day. The winds are due to abate on Friday which is when we plan to go to Camp Three and sleep overnight. The problem is the winds have prevented the Sherpas from erecting the tents up there. The current plan is that they'll do that on the Friday as well (they'll be much quicker than us).
There is however a larger problem that needs to be sorted out in the next few days.
The Lhotse face is particularly icy this year and there are a lot of stones and rocks either on or just underneath the surface. Consequently there is an increased risk of rock and stone fall and hence injury.
The position of the current fixed rope up to Camp Three is close to a natural funnel (think inverted) making the lower section apparently quite dangerous.
The big six teams (of which JG are one) and their Sherpas are currently discussing the best way forward. Options include moving the fixed ropes 100m to the right but this would then be over substantially steeper terrain (several vertical sections). The Sherpas are not keen on this as it makes the route much harder for them and their load carrying. Another option is to stop all climbing above Camp Two for a day whilst a group of Sherpas go up the existing route but spaced out horizontally to dislodge the stones and rocks.
Unlike crossing the Grand Couloir on the way up to the Goutier Hut on Mont Blanc you only have to dodge any rockfall for 45-60 seconds as you travel across the couloir. Here we are going to be underneath potential stonefall for 3-5 hours!
Neither option is perfect but these delays, even of a couple of days, mean that a summit bid of mid May has slipped away and we are now probably looking at 20-25 May. Frustrating for us as this will inevitably lead to more people attempting the summit on any given day and potential delays on bottlenecks such as the Hilary Step.
As David said 'it's a complicated mountain'.
What with the unstable icefall, the 2012 season looks like it has the potential to be memorable for all the wrong reasons.
Needless to say the team are rather subdued today and I can't even think of anything humorous to end on.
Next post hopefully from Camp Two tommorrow.
Actually I've just thought of something to brighten up the day for all you male readers!
My favourite Albert Einstein quote:
Some men spend a lifetime in an attempt to comprehend the complexities of women. Others preoccupy themselves with simpler tasks such as understanding the theory of relativity.
Monday, 30 April 2012
A change of schedule
As you know we were due to go up to Camp Two early tomorrow morning.
That's now been delayed by a day due to high winds higher up on the mountain. Our Sherpas have been unable to cut the ledges for our tents at Camp Three whilst other Sherpas from a combination of teams set off this morning to continue fixing the lines up to the South Col but were beaten back by the strong winds.
Yes it's rather frustrating having got packed and psyched up for a tough day. Nevermind I'm sure another day of rest won't do us any harm.
Now I'll have to think of a topic for tomorrow's post!!
That's now been delayed by a day due to high winds higher up on the mountain. Our Sherpas have been unable to cut the ledges for our tents at Camp Three whilst other Sherpas from a combination of teams set off this morning to continue fixing the lines up to the South Col but were beaten back by the strong winds.
Yes it's rather frustrating having got packed and psyched up for a tough day. Nevermind I'm sure another day of rest won't do us any harm.
Now I'll have to think of a topic for tomorrow's post!!
Sunday, 29 April 2012
A quick trip down to Gorak Shep & more on Friday's avalanche
Well after possibly one of the best nights sleep at BC (all of the team commented on how well they had slept) I decided that after some washing I'd pop down (I like using the word 'pop' because three weeks ago I couldn't have thought of a more unsuitable word!) to Gorak Shep to catch up on emails etc.
David said a couple of interesting things at breakfast: firstly, that approximately 30 climbers have returned home so far having either decided that Everest is not for them or they have been medically evacuated. So that's around 8-10% of the climbers here. Secondly, that the icefall appears to be much more unstable this year (just my luck). Apparently in previous years the route has only had to changed two or three times because of avalanche. This year it seems to be an almost daily occurrence.
Yesterday three or four of us thought about going down to Gorak Shep today but come this morning it was only me (is it something I said - I've not even told my 'high protein lozenge joke for the Khumbu cough yet'!). I have to be honest and say after five weeks, which incidentally means we are half way through the expedition, it was really nice just to have some time to myself outside of the confines of my tent (now I'm starting to make it sound like a prison cell).
I was able to really enjoy the walk down, going at my own pace, taking the scenery in and lost in a world of my own thoughts. Sadly I didn't have my camera with me as I saw a couple of Blackbird and Thrush sized birds with really beautiful red and multi coloured plumage.
Now this is going to sound awful but it was quite entertaining to see trekkers struggling up the trail hunched over their walking poles and not having the energy to say hello or to even raise a smile! Mind you I'm sure that's what we looked like three weeks ago and no doubt will look like on our way up to camp three. Time wise up and down was an hour and a quarter, virtually the same as last time, but it felt easier so hopefully there are a few more red blood cells inside me now.
Now on Friday at the bottom of the post you may recall that I mentioned an avalanche that swept across the width of the Western Cwm ( you may recall I've self imposed a 48 hour embargo on bad/ potentially bad news).
On Friday we were walking up to the Bergschund below the Lhotse face when at around ten am we heard the typical sound of an avalanche off behind to our right. Turning around we could see an avalanche cascading like a large waterfall down the side of Nuptse, probably two thousand feet above the Western Cwm. We all watched mesmerised by its size only to see what now looked like a cloud of snow and ice travel across the entire width of the valley and up the other side by about 500 feet, probably more. To give you an idea of time scale, whilst watching it travel down the side of Nuptse, I realised it was going to be huge and had time to take my rucksack off, get my camera out and catch a picture of it travelling up the other side!
Naturally we thought of people travelling up to Camp Two and hoped all were safe. What we hadn't appreciated was that the Lhotse team (led by Adele Pennington of JG) and her two team members had travelled up from BC that morning to Camp One. The avalanche was so huge that it took out nearly every tent at Camp One by virtue of the blast and snow debris. Thankfully Adele, Ron and Scott were all safe and well. They were outside the tents but were able to hunch down and shelter in the lee of them. It is a great testament to the strength of the Terra Nova heavyduty Hyperspace tents that Jagged Globe choose to use and how well our sherpa team have erected them just in case of such an eventuality that they survived unscathed except for one broken pole.
When we dropped off our walking poles yesterday all of the other tents were completely devastated including those just a few metres away from ours. Adele and her team wisely decided to carry on up to Camp Two and whilst obviously very shaken, we're able to enjoy a late lunch in the Camp Two mess tent.
As far as we know there were no fatalities however Pasang was returning to base camp that day and ended up rescuing a Sherpa who had been blown off a ladder into a crevace by the avalanche. It's thought he had some rib injuries and was helicoptered off to Kathmandu. Pasang never got his rest day in BC instead he returned to Camp Two only to find he had a squatter in his tent - either Ron or Scott!
David said a couple of interesting things at breakfast: firstly, that approximately 30 climbers have returned home so far having either decided that Everest is not for them or they have been medically evacuated. So that's around 8-10% of the climbers here. Secondly, that the icefall appears to be much more unstable this year (just my luck). Apparently in previous years the route has only had to changed two or three times because of avalanche. This year it seems to be an almost daily occurrence.
Yesterday three or four of us thought about going down to Gorak Shep today but come this morning it was only me (is it something I said - I've not even told my 'high protein lozenge joke for the Khumbu cough yet'!). I have to be honest and say after five weeks, which incidentally means we are half way through the expedition, it was really nice just to have some time to myself outside of the confines of my tent (now I'm starting to make it sound like a prison cell).
I was able to really enjoy the walk down, going at my own pace, taking the scenery in and lost in a world of my own thoughts. Sadly I didn't have my camera with me as I saw a couple of Blackbird and Thrush sized birds with really beautiful red and multi coloured plumage.
Now this is going to sound awful but it was quite entertaining to see trekkers struggling up the trail hunched over their walking poles and not having the energy to say hello or to even raise a smile! Mind you I'm sure that's what we looked like three weeks ago and no doubt will look like on our way up to camp three. Time wise up and down was an hour and a quarter, virtually the same as last time, but it felt easier so hopefully there are a few more red blood cells inside me now.
Now on Friday at the bottom of the post you may recall that I mentioned an avalanche that swept across the width of the Western Cwm ( you may recall I've self imposed a 48 hour embargo on bad/ potentially bad news).
On Friday we were walking up to the Bergschund below the Lhotse face when at around ten am we heard the typical sound of an avalanche off behind to our right. Turning around we could see an avalanche cascading like a large waterfall down the side of Nuptse, probably two thousand feet above the Western Cwm. We all watched mesmerised by its size only to see what now looked like a cloud of snow and ice travel across the entire width of the valley and up the other side by about 500 feet, probably more. To give you an idea of time scale, whilst watching it travel down the side of Nuptse, I realised it was going to be huge and had time to take my rucksack off, get my camera out and catch a picture of it travelling up the other side!
Naturally we thought of people travelling up to Camp Two and hoped all were safe. What we hadn't appreciated was that the Lhotse team (led by Adele Pennington of JG) and her two team members had travelled up from BC that morning to Camp One. The avalanche was so huge that it took out nearly every tent at Camp One by virtue of the blast and snow debris. Thankfully Adele, Ron and Scott were all safe and well. They were outside the tents but were able to hunch down and shelter in the lee of them. It is a great testament to the strength of the Terra Nova heavyduty Hyperspace tents that Jagged Globe choose to use and how well our sherpa team have erected them just in case of such an eventuality that they survived unscathed except for one broken pole.
When we dropped off our walking poles yesterday all of the other tents were completely devastated including those just a few metres away from ours. Adele and her team wisely decided to carry on up to Camp Two and whilst obviously very shaken, we're able to enjoy a late lunch in the Camp Two mess tent.
As far as we know there were no fatalities however Pasang was returning to base camp that day and ended up rescuing a Sherpa who had been blown off a ladder into a crevace by the avalanche. It's thought he had some rib injuries and was helicoptered off to Kathmandu. Pasang never got his rest day in BC instead he returned to Camp Two only to find he had a squatter in his tent - either Ron or Scott!
Saturday, 28 April 2012
Safely back at BC and my knee
We set off this morning from Camp Two at 5.45am (just after first light). For some reason I hadn't slept well. Despite not having an afternoon siesta and listening to my iPod until 10.00pm I then dozed on and off rather fitfully until the alarm went off at 4.30am.
We set off down the Western Cwm in solitude and admiring the grandeur of the scenery on our way to Camp One. It wasn't long before we saw a line of Sherpas heading towards us. After about 40 minutes we came to the scene of yesterday's avalanche (more on that tomorrow) and despite how recently it occurred a new trail had been formed through it.
On arriving at Camp One we swapped our walking poles for our helmets (which had been left in one of the tents) and then set off into the icefall once again. It wasn't long before the terrain had altered dramatically since our climb up just five days ago. A huge avalanche of ice had swelled down from near Lho La exposing the bedrock below. This was the avalanche that had obviously blocked the route a couple of days ago. Now there were new ladders in place and we had to pick our way through the debris. We didn't like hanging around here because there is plenty more to come down!
We then reached an area that is rather euphemistically called 'the football field' - not premiership you understand, more local community as it has a slope of about 15 degrees. It also boasts four crevaces that you have to jump across! Not sure how the greensman would mark out the pitch. However in comparison to the topsy turvey world of the rest of the icefall it is fairly flat.
Next comes some more avalanche debris (this is where the photo is taken). What you can't see in the picture is the seracs hanging above us!
We set off down the Western Cwm in solitude and admiring the grandeur of the scenery on our way to Camp One. It wasn't long before we saw a line of Sherpas heading towards us. After about 40 minutes we came to the scene of yesterday's avalanche (more on that tomorrow) and despite how recently it occurred a new trail had been formed through it.
On arriving at Camp One we swapped our walking poles for our helmets (which had been left in one of the tents) and then set off into the icefall once again. It wasn't long before the terrain had altered dramatically since our climb up just five days ago. A huge avalanche of ice had swelled down from near Lho La exposing the bedrock below. This was the avalanche that had obviously blocked the route a couple of days ago. Now there were new ladders in place and we had to pick our way through the debris. We didn't like hanging around here because there is plenty more to come down!
We then reached an area that is rather euphemistically called 'the football field' - not premiership you understand, more local community as it has a slope of about 15 degrees. It also boasts four crevaces that you have to jump across! Not sure how the greensman would mark out the pitch. However in comparison to the topsy turvey world of the rest of the icefall it is fairly flat.
Next comes some more avalanche debris (this is where the photo is taken). What you can't see in the picture is the seracs hanging above us!
Back to the icefall. Finally there is quite a steep section, up to 70 degrees, that lasts for about 45 minutes. Whilst you can see BC spread out before you, it's still at least an hour and a half away.
As the sun starts to beat down on us we take off a couple of layers and replace our helmets with our sun hats as we are now on safer ground.
Adam greets us with a full cooked breakfast which we wolf down. The journey has taken us four hours. It's great to be back at BC and I never thought I'd hear myself saying that!
We are scheduled to be here for another two days.
For those that know me well or for those who don't but have read my training page you'll know I've got quite severe arthritis in my left knee joint. How has this been affecting me?
You will have noticed that I've made no reference to it todate in any of my posts. Why?
Well to begin with the first two days trekking from Lukla were absolute hell and I thought that my attempt might literally be over before I started. I still don't understand why but it gradually improved over the following three or four days.
I wore Salomon trainers until the last two days before base camp when I wore lightweight trekking boots.
Since we've been operating out of base camp I've had no pain in ascent and some limited pain in decent. That's when I've been forced to take an overlery large step down or I've had to walk at an odd angle normally over avalanche debris.
The only thing that I can think of that is different here to the UK is the relative humidity which is approximately 10% over here in the mountains. I don't know whether any scientific studies have been carried out or not on the severity of arthritis and relative humidity but I'm very happy to put myself forward as a guinea pig for somewhere hot and arid right now!
Fingers crossed it continues to behave itself.
Monday, 23 April 2012
Back up to Camp One
The alarm goes off at 1.30am and as I'm so comfortable I really don't want to get out of my sleeping bag. I have remind myself why I'm here and that it's not meant to be a holiday.
If feels slightly warmer this morning and my fingers remain warm as I dress. Even before getting to the mess tent I hear two avalanches, one on the Pumori side and another on the Lhotse side.
Things follow the usual pattern of breakfast then setting off to crampon point at the foot of the icefall the only difference this time is that we have larger packs.
After about an hour and a quarter there is the tell tale sound of an avalanche somewhere over to our left, but where? It's beyond the range of our head torches, everyone stops just in case it comes into view. Thankfully it passes us without incident.
Tonight it's extremely busy with Sherpas ferrying loads upto camp two and beyond. I never cease to be amazed by their stamina and speed. Whether its because we are stopping to let them pass or it's our heavier packs I feel we are going more slowly than before.
Starting at around 4.30am the night sky lightens imperceptibly at first as a new day dawns. The sky takes on a magical feel and we are able to switch off our head torches.
On the upper reaches of the ice fall there is evidence of a large avalanche that must have occurred since our last trip up. Its demolished our previous route and so we pick pur way across the new uneven ground.
If feels slightly warmer this morning and my fingers remain warm as I dress. Even before getting to the mess tent I hear two avalanches, one on the Pumori side and another on the Lhotse side.
Things follow the usual pattern of breakfast then setting off to crampon point at the foot of the icefall the only difference this time is that we have larger packs.
After about an hour and a quarter there is the tell tale sound of an avalanche somewhere over to our left, but where? It's beyond the range of our head torches, everyone stops just in case it comes into view. Thankfully it passes us without incident.
Tonight it's extremely busy with Sherpas ferrying loads upto camp two and beyond. I never cease to be amazed by their stamina and speed. Whether its because we are stopping to let them pass or it's our heavier packs I feel we are going more slowly than before.
Starting at around 4.30am the night sky lightens imperceptibly at first as a new day dawns. The sky takes on a magical feel and we are able to switch off our head torches.
On the upper reaches of the ice fall there is evidence of a large avalanche that must have occurred since our last trip up. Its demolished our previous route and so we pick pur way across the new uneven ground.
We then come to a double ladder crossing and sadly the site of where a Sherpa died two days ago. For the sake of speed he chose not to clip into the handrail. Unfortunately he fell into the crevasse. His body was recovered yesterday morning by helicopter.
Almost there now, we can see the tents tantalisingly in the distance but it's another 45 minutes before we reach them.
Almost there now, we can see the tents tantalisingly in the distance but it's another 45 minutes before we reach them.
 |
| Camp One, the red tents are ours, Pumori in the background |
Surprisingly when I check my watch on arrival it's 7.58 just five and a half hours since we left.
Brett is just a short distance behind me so after removing my crampons I collapse into our tent and get the stove on for us to have a hot drink.
It's sunny but much windier than last time. This made the trip through the ice fall quite cold but on the plus side let us hope we won't be having 35-40 degree c temperatures in the tent.
The plan for the rest of the day is to rest and sleep.
Talking of the wind, David told us yesterday evening that our mess tent at camp two has been flattened by the high winds. Apparently the winds have been much stronger up there. It means the Sherpas are having to bring that tent down to BC and carry our communications tent up to camp two before we arrive there tommorrow.
Brett is just a short distance behind me so after removing my crampons I collapse into our tent and get the stove on for us to have a hot drink.
It's sunny but much windier than last time. This made the trip through the ice fall quite cold but on the plus side let us hope we won't be having 35-40 degree c temperatures in the tent.
The plan for the rest of the day is to rest and sleep.
Talking of the wind, David told us yesterday evening that our mess tent at camp two has been flattened by the high winds. Apparently the winds have been much stronger up there. It means the Sherpas are having to bring that tent down to BC and carry our communications tent up to camp two before we arrive there tommorrow.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)