I'm sorry to say that I'm going to be leaving the electronics necessary to send the blog here at Camp Two.
I've removed any excess items from my pack and it just seems crazy to add another 750 grams back to it. That just shows you how fine I think the line between success and failure could be.
I am still talking my satellite phone so I intend to do a lot more 'tweeting' so you'll still be able to follow my progress. To be fair I'm not sure how much energy I'd have to write anything meaningful. Unfortunately it's very much a one way affair. I can tweet but I can't see any messages that have been sent.
You'll also hopefully be able to follow my progress on the interactive map page on the web site. I still plan on taking the Spot2 gps messenger with me. Unfortunately I forgot to switch it on this morning, so it's not fool proof.
I also know its only approved for use up to 4500m and whilst it's worked at higher altitudes here already I can't guarantee that it will continue to do so. Basically if its not working don't panic!
Showing posts with label Camp Two. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Camp Two. Show all posts
Tuesday, 22 May 2012
Saturday, 19 May 2012
Rescue from Camp Three
In line with my policy of delaying bad news by 48 hours the events below took place in the early hours of Thursday morning 17 May and I wrote the post that afternoon.
I was woken by David at 5.50am and told to get dressed and meet him in the comms tent. I could tell by his voice that there was a sense of urgency.
Once there,which didn't take long, he told me that unfortunately one of our Sherpas had been hit by a serac fall close to Camp Three. Because of my mountain rescue training he wanted me to man the radio and to co-ordinate radio traffic between the rescuers, our base camp and the HRA doctors (whose work ive already spoken about) also at BC.
I had heard an avalanche/rockfall earlier at about 5.00am from the Lhotse face but thought nothing of it.
The first call was made at 6.03am and the last to say that the casualty was on his way to Kathmandu at 12.47pm.
Initial reports from the sherpas spoke of two leg injuries, an arm and a head injury.
This is a shortened version.
David left with Adele (the Lhotse leader) at roughly 6.45am taking our extensive medical kit and also picking up some morphine and IV fluids on the way up to the bergschund.
Pasang had left Camp Two immediately on hearing the news and had taken a Sked (portable type of stretcher) up to the casualty.
Apparently the serac fall happened just 50 m from our Camp Three tents and has unfortunately wiped out an number of other teams tents. Thankfully as far as we currently know nobody was sleeping in them at the time.
The sherpa rescue team reached the bottom of the Lhotse face at about 8.45 am where the Sherpa was given some morphine.
Meanwhile we had been liasing with other teams to provide additional man power, Sherpas and medical resources. In the end everybody from our team contributed in some way.
Thankfully certain helicopters can fly to/from Camp Two so we were able to have one on standby at Lukla from around 7.30am. Unfortunately by the time we got the eta of the causality at Camp Two it had been called to another job.
There are no air ambulances here in Nepal and for the helicppter companies 'time is money'. We later learnt that it had gone off to pick up a trekker with non life threatening injuries.
So plan B swung into operation which was to clear a mess tent near the helipad to receive and hopefully stabilise the casualty until the helicopter could arrive. The casualty arrived in camp at 10.30 roughly five and a half hours after the incident.
With the help of a couple of JG team members we found a Dutch doctor and an Indian paramedic in camp who both kindly agreed to assist.
Time was not on our side with the weather as the typical afternoon cloud was beginning to bubble up.
Eventually he was evacuated at 12.24pm back to BC where the doctors assessed him. Whilst this was happening the pilot returned a second time to pick up another Sherpa who was also caught in the serac fall although he had slightly less serious injuries.
The last radio call was to say that the casualty was on his way to Katmandu.
As of now, Thursday lunchtime, we understand that our Sherpa's injuries are a broken left leg, broken left arm and some superficial head injuries. Our concern is of course for any internal injuries.
Our thanks go out to all those who helped in the rescue and we hope he makes a full and speedy recovery.
There is also a quick personal message to the Dartmoor Rescue Group Ashburton section: a really big thank you for all of those hours of training you all put for the benefit of others. Rob now I know what it feels to like in the control vehicle (yes I had a thermos)! To Richard & Tas thanks for the Casulty Care course. Whilst I wasn't hands on (hence much more chance of the casualty surviving) it was great to be able to make some informed suggestions as to the casualty's welfare.
Ps please can I be excused radio relay for a couple of evenings!
I was woken by David at 5.50am and told to get dressed and meet him in the comms tent. I could tell by his voice that there was a sense of urgency.
Once there,which didn't take long, he told me that unfortunately one of our Sherpas had been hit by a serac fall close to Camp Three. Because of my mountain rescue training he wanted me to man the radio and to co-ordinate radio traffic between the rescuers, our base camp and the HRA doctors (whose work ive already spoken about) also at BC.
I had heard an avalanche/rockfall earlier at about 5.00am from the Lhotse face but thought nothing of it.
The first call was made at 6.03am and the last to say that the casualty was on his way to Kathmandu at 12.47pm.
Initial reports from the sherpas spoke of two leg injuries, an arm and a head injury.
This is a shortened version.
David left with Adele (the Lhotse leader) at roughly 6.45am taking our extensive medical kit and also picking up some morphine and IV fluids on the way up to the bergschund.
Pasang had left Camp Two immediately on hearing the news and had taken a Sked (portable type of stretcher) up to the casualty.
Apparently the serac fall happened just 50 m from our Camp Three tents and has unfortunately wiped out an number of other teams tents. Thankfully as far as we currently know nobody was sleeping in them at the time.
The sherpa rescue team reached the bottom of the Lhotse face at about 8.45 am where the Sherpa was given some morphine.
Meanwhile we had been liasing with other teams to provide additional man power, Sherpas and medical resources. In the end everybody from our team contributed in some way.
Thankfully certain helicopters can fly to/from Camp Two so we were able to have one on standby at Lukla from around 7.30am. Unfortunately by the time we got the eta of the causality at Camp Two it had been called to another job.
There are no air ambulances here in Nepal and for the helicppter companies 'time is money'. We later learnt that it had gone off to pick up a trekker with non life threatening injuries.
So plan B swung into operation which was to clear a mess tent near the helipad to receive and hopefully stabilise the casualty until the helicopter could arrive. The casualty arrived in camp at 10.30 roughly five and a half hours after the incident.
With the help of a couple of JG team members we found a Dutch doctor and an Indian paramedic in camp who both kindly agreed to assist.
Time was not on our side with the weather as the typical afternoon cloud was beginning to bubble up.
Eventually he was evacuated at 12.24pm back to BC where the doctors assessed him. Whilst this was happening the pilot returned a second time to pick up another Sherpa who was also caught in the serac fall although he had slightly less serious injuries.
The last radio call was to say that the casualty was on his way to Katmandu.
As of now, Thursday lunchtime, we understand that our Sherpa's injuries are a broken left leg, broken left arm and some superficial head injuries. Our concern is of course for any internal injuries.
Our thanks go out to all those who helped in the rescue and we hope he makes a full and speedy recovery.
There is also a quick personal message to the Dartmoor Rescue Group Ashburton section: a really big thank you for all of those hours of training you all put for the benefit of others. Rob now I know what it feels to like in the control vehicle (yes I had a thermos)! To Richard & Tas thanks for the Casulty Care course. Whilst I wasn't hands on (hence much more chance of the casualty surviving) it was great to be able to make some informed suggestions as to the casualty's welfare.
Ps please can I be excused radio relay for a couple of evenings!
Friday, 18 May 2012
Is this an accident waiting to happen?
I apologise for the quality of the picture but I hope it gives you an idea of the number of people on the Lhotse face just above Camp Three.
Seeing that sight at 8.30 am makes me very pleased that we are still down here at Camp Two.
We are waiting for an updated weather forecast early this afternoon but at present it looks likely that we will be going back down to BC to wait for a second weather window that seems to be opening up around the 26th May. Increasingly strong winds are now forecast starting on the 19th putting a summit bid on the 20/21st out.
Yes it's disappointing but we must be guided by David's experience. There are also a number of other teams who are still sitting it out at BC waiting for the right window.
Wednesday, 16 May 2012
Another foray up to Camp Two - hopefully our last
We set off at one thirty am this morning back up through the ice fall. It felt warmer on the lower sections and amazingly we didn't hear any avalanches. I just climb steadily (slowly) ever upwards with just a small circle of light from my head torch roughly 18 inches in diameter lighting up the ground just ahead of my feet and showing me the heels of the person in front. Everything else is darkness.
The route is becoming familiar now as we begin to recognise different sections. What hasn't changed is the overall length.
Once past Camp One we are into the Western Cwm and it's now light. It's not long before the sun is scorching across the glacier and your body temperatures rises rapidly. You can see Camp Two in the distance and you face a dilemma: do you stop and take some layers off upsetting the rythym you've developed or do you struggle on thinking it can be no more than another 45 minutes. I chose the latter, arriving exhausted and dehydrated. Apart from porridge before setting off I'd only eaten one energy bar for the whole seven and a half hours. Why so little? A) it's extremely cold when you stop and B) you don't want to hang around on the icefall.
We've all spent the afternoon sleeping in our tents thankful that tomorrow is a rest day! How we will cope with three tough consequetive days only time will tell.
The route is becoming familiar now as we begin to recognise different sections. What hasn't changed is the overall length.
Once past Camp One we are into the Western Cwm and it's now light. It's not long before the sun is scorching across the glacier and your body temperatures rises rapidly. You can see Camp Two in the distance and you face a dilemma: do you stop and take some layers off upsetting the rythym you've developed or do you struggle on thinking it can be no more than another 45 minutes. I chose the latter, arriving exhausted and dehydrated. Apart from porridge before setting off I'd only eaten one energy bar for the whole seven and a half hours. Why so little? A) it's extremely cold when you stop and B) you don't want to hang around on the icefall.
We've all spent the afternoon sleeping in our tents thankful that tomorrow is a rest day! How we will cope with three tough consequetive days only time will tell.
Tuesday, 8 May 2012
Return to Base Camp
We set off from Camp Two at 5.30am and walked down the Westen Cwm. It was a beautiful clear morning and we had the glacier to ourselves. In the distance the sun was rising over on Pumori whilst a cool wind drove against our backs having swept down the icy Lhotse face. It was one of those mornings to savour and well worth the discomfort of such an early start.
An hour earlier we had packed away and damp and ice rimmed sleeping bags, deflated our thermarests and tidied up our tents. All this just in case they get hit by an avalanche. Apparently it's easier to find your belongings if they are in stuff sacs.
We made it down to Camp One in about an hour and left our walking poles in the one tent we have remaining there and donned our helmets.
I was beginning to wonder were all the Sherpas where as by this stage we hadn't passed any which I thought odd. I needn't have fretted as within 45 minutes there was a steady stream of them slowly but surely making their way up through the ice fall.
An hour earlier we had packed away and damp and ice rimmed sleeping bags, deflated our thermarests and tidied up our tents. All this just in case they get hit by an avalanche. Apparently it's easier to find your belongings if they are in stuff sacs.
We made it down to Camp One in about an hour and left our walking poles in the one tent we have remaining there and donned our helmets.
I was beginning to wonder were all the Sherpas where as by this stage we hadn't passed any which I thought odd. I needn't have fretted as within 45 minutes there was a steady stream of them slowly but surely making their way up through the ice fall.
 |
| Photo of a triple ladder spanning a deep crevasse (top). A subsequent avalanche changed the route. I was standing on a snow bridge when I took it (not for long though!). |
David announced that we would be here for at least six days perhaps up to ten or twelve depending upon how the rope fixing and supply of Camp Four go. It also depends upon a suitable weather window. We do have the option of going down to one of the lower villages to enjoy some richer oxygenated air but I think most of us are going to stay here.
It's just below 5500m so our bodies shouldn't deteriorate and we are pretty well acclimatised to this height. Secondly Adam's food is much better than in the lodges.
We will make day trips to ensure we don't get 'bed sores' just lying around in BC.
Indeed after some much needed washing tomorrow I'm popping down to Gorak Shep to get some good Internet access and to perhaps add a couple of books to my Kindle.
David has said that we don't need to go back up to Camp Three before our summit bid as he would rather we all get as strong as possible ready for the 'toughest five days of your life!'.
Two or three days I know I can cope with. Five without adequate food and rehydration - well we will have to see.
So that leaves me with a bit of a quandary - how am I going to keep you interested in my endeavours when the next week or so is going to be spent here at BC? Suggestions please!
Personally I'm glad of the rest period as hopefully it'll allow me to get over my stomach bug.
Scary as it sounds the next time we venture up through the icefall we will hopefully be on our way to the summit!
Monday, 7 May 2012
Back to Camp Two
Sleeping on the oxygen went pretty well once I got used to the cannula. I had seven hours straight sleep and woke feeling ok if a little chilly but I also felt hungry. So next time I might go on the oxygen as soon as we arrive at the Camp to see if it helps with my appetite.
As I feeling slightly cold I put on my down suit and then had a rather fitful couple of hours sleep before we woke up at 5.00 am.
I won't describe the problems here of a 'follow through' at 7100m whilst wearing a down suit, let me just say 'not pleasent'. I was too mean to give them a 'Viking burial', so they are coming down to BC.
I've already told you about the struggle getting up each morning but I've not mentioned about the daily fight I have with my high altitude double boots. It's no exaggeration to say it takes at least six to eight minutes a foot to put each boot on.
Firstly the inner boot is rather like putting on a well fitting Wellington boot as you have to inch your foot in, first your toes, then waggle the tongue a bit, back to the heel - pull, then the tongue again, finally your foot is in but you're now exhausted because of the lack of oxygen! Take a breather for a minute.
Now this is the bit I find hardest getting the inner boot into the outer.
I open the boot fully and insert my toes and all of a sudden there we have it my foot stuck at approximately 45 degrees and it won't budge. There's a small flap/toggle of outer boot insulation that now needs to be pulled tight with all the strength you can muster in your arms whilst at the same time pushing with your leg. It's not just me, watching Brett do up his boots is the same. Whoever designed these boots did so at a factory at sea level!
Finally your inner boot slips in and it's time for another breather before doing up three two inch wide Velcro tabs that hold the inner boot firmly in place.
We left at just after six and seemed to speed down the fixed lines only needing to abseil the very final section. Most of the time I used a 'Sherpa' wrap. This is were you wrap the fixed rope once around an arm (I use my left), and you face forward and walk down the slope ensuring that your crampons are firmly planted. You are also clipped in so in theory shouldn't fall too far, well no more than 50 m!!
We made it back by 8.30am for a welcome breakfast. A far cry from the eight hours up.
David then gave us a debrief: basically most of us weren't quick enough as the next two days to the South Col and the Summit Day are longer and we wouldn't make them on the supplied oxygen. More on this tomorrow.
Also everyone's crampon front pointing technique was poor except for one person's. Ok it's hard for me to say it but it was 'moi'! Well I thought I'd end on a high point.
As I feeling slightly cold I put on my down suit and then had a rather fitful couple of hours sleep before we woke up at 5.00 am.
I won't describe the problems here of a 'follow through' at 7100m whilst wearing a down suit, let me just say 'not pleasent'. I was too mean to give them a 'Viking burial', so they are coming down to BC.
I've already told you about the struggle getting up each morning but I've not mentioned about the daily fight I have with my high altitude double boots. It's no exaggeration to say it takes at least six to eight minutes a foot to put each boot on.
Firstly the inner boot is rather like putting on a well fitting Wellington boot as you have to inch your foot in, first your toes, then waggle the tongue a bit, back to the heel - pull, then the tongue again, finally your foot is in but you're now exhausted because of the lack of oxygen! Take a breather for a minute.
Now this is the bit I find hardest getting the inner boot into the outer.
I open the boot fully and insert my toes and all of a sudden there we have it my foot stuck at approximately 45 degrees and it won't budge. There's a small flap/toggle of outer boot insulation that now needs to be pulled tight with all the strength you can muster in your arms whilst at the same time pushing with your leg. It's not just me, watching Brett do up his boots is the same. Whoever designed these boots did so at a factory at sea level!
Finally your inner boot slips in and it's time for another breather before doing up three two inch wide Velcro tabs that hold the inner boot firmly in place.
We left at just after six and seemed to speed down the fixed lines only needing to abseil the very final section. Most of the time I used a 'Sherpa' wrap. This is were you wrap the fixed rope once around an arm (I use my left), and you face forward and walk down the slope ensuring that your crampons are firmly planted. You are also clipped in so in theory shouldn't fall too far, well no more than 50 m!!
We made it back by 8.30am for a welcome breakfast. A far cry from the eight hours up.
David then gave us a debrief: basically most of us weren't quick enough as the next two days to the South Col and the Summit Day are longer and we wouldn't make them on the supplied oxygen. More on this tomorrow.
Also everyone's crampon front pointing technique was poor except for one person's. Ok it's hard for me to say it but it was 'moi'! Well I thought I'd end on a high point.
Saturday, 5 May 2012
A change in the weather
We were meant to set off at 6.00 am this morning but it quickly became apparent that the weather had changed. Our mornings of blue sky's had given way to snow and very limited visibility ( very reminiscent of Scottish weather- actually that's not true - it would have been raining!).
For some reason I hadn't slept well and kept tossing and turning to try and get comfortable.
Having packed our gear, after breakfast it was time to unpack it and try and get warm again. It's surprising how quickly you get cold just sitting around.
Unpacking a soggy down sleeping bag and trying to inflate a frozen thermarest isn't much fun. It took me almost 3 hours to get warm and I still had cold toes. The tent unfortunately resembles a swamp at present as the frozen condensation melts. This has been made worse by the snow fall so that the inner and outer flysheet have touched allowing a direct path for the melting snow to enter the tent.
To make matters worse if the sun doesn't come out this afternoon we won't get anything dry. There begins the slippery slope of our bags becoming damper and damper and less effective as the down looses its insulation.
We plan to go up to Camp Three weather permitting so we are a day behind schedule. However with yesterday's news that's not a problem.
It's hoped that the snow might consolidate things. There's also a period of a few days of light winds that might help with the fixing of the ropes. After that stronger winds are set to return.
Apparently Russell Brice's team is still in BC but he has called off all climbing on the mountain.
Some Sherpa teams have been carrying things up to Camp Two today.
For some reason I hadn't slept well and kept tossing and turning to try and get comfortable.
Having packed our gear, after breakfast it was time to unpack it and try and get warm again. It's surprising how quickly you get cold just sitting around.
Unpacking a soggy down sleeping bag and trying to inflate a frozen thermarest isn't much fun. It took me almost 3 hours to get warm and I still had cold toes. The tent unfortunately resembles a swamp at present as the frozen condensation melts. This has been made worse by the snow fall so that the inner and outer flysheet have touched allowing a direct path for the melting snow to enter the tent.
To make matters worse if the sun doesn't come out this afternoon we won't get anything dry. There begins the slippery slope of our bags becoming damper and damper and less effective as the down looses its insulation.
We plan to go up to Camp Three weather permitting so we are a day behind schedule. However with yesterday's news that's not a problem.
It's hoped that the snow might consolidate things. There's also a period of a few days of light winds that might help with the fixing of the ropes. After that stronger winds are set to return.
Apparently Russell Brice's team is still in BC but he has called off all climbing on the mountain.
Some Sherpa teams have been carrying things up to Camp Two today.
Friday, 4 May 2012
Lots of uncertainty
David joined us for breakfast having left at BC at 2.00am and romping up here in 7 hours.
Apparently there was a big meeting in BC yesterday afternoon amongst the leading teams.
Now please take everything that follows as third hand because that is what it is.
As you know the Lhotse face has a lot of rock fall on it this year (much more than in the previous four or five years). A new route has been put up to the right of the funnel and our Sherpas are up at camp three right now putting up our tents.
The problem lies in now setting the route up to the South Col where there is apparently still more stone fall than usual. The forecast is for some snow during the next three or four afternoons which may help consolidate the rock and stone fall, binding it to the ice below.
The problem is for every trip we take up the mountain the sherpas take five or six. Consequently they are at much greater risk than us. They are also not keen on this new route to the right as it is longer and harder - not something you want when carrying a heavy pack. Also the Shepas never sleep at Camp Three believing it to be bad luck and upsetting the spirits of the Gods. Consequently they go up and down each day to Camp Two or travel on to Camp Four at the South Col (which is not set up yet).
A helicopter pilot has apparently given his flying time for free to allow for photographs to be taken and studied of the upper slopes which is fantastic.
Russell Brice (who runs the Himex team) has apparently said that he will no longer be climbing on the mountain. Whether this is an immediate withdrawl or not I don't know.
The other leading teams are of the opinion that this is perhaps rather hasty given that it it still very early May.
As I've said everything above is third hand.
As of now we are pressing ahead with our Camp three rotation tomorrow morning and then a further night here at Camp Two. We will then return to BC to see what the latest news and weather forecasts are.
Right now though any summit bid wii be late May and perhaps, I must warn you not at all.
Needless to say we are all taking this news in but are confident that whatever David and Pasang decide for us it will be the right decision.
Apparently there was a big meeting in BC yesterday afternoon amongst the leading teams.
Now please take everything that follows as third hand because that is what it is.
As you know the Lhotse face has a lot of rock fall on it this year (much more than in the previous four or five years). A new route has been put up to the right of the funnel and our Sherpas are up at camp three right now putting up our tents.
The problem lies in now setting the route up to the South Col where there is apparently still more stone fall than usual. The forecast is for some snow during the next three or four afternoons which may help consolidate the rock and stone fall, binding it to the ice below.
The problem is for every trip we take up the mountain the sherpas take five or six. Consequently they are at much greater risk than us. They are also not keen on this new route to the right as it is longer and harder - not something you want when carrying a heavy pack. Also the Shepas never sleep at Camp Three believing it to be bad luck and upsetting the spirits of the Gods. Consequently they go up and down each day to Camp Two or travel on to Camp Four at the South Col (which is not set up yet).
A helicopter pilot has apparently given his flying time for free to allow for photographs to be taken and studied of the upper slopes which is fantastic.
Russell Brice (who runs the Himex team) has apparently said that he will no longer be climbing on the mountain. Whether this is an immediate withdrawl or not I don't know.
The other leading teams are of the opinion that this is perhaps rather hasty given that it it still very early May.
As I've said everything above is third hand.
As of now we are pressing ahead with our Camp three rotation tomorrow morning and then a further night here at Camp Two. We will then return to BC to see what the latest news and weather forecasts are.
Right now though any summit bid wii be late May and perhaps, I must warn you not at all.
Needless to say we are all taking this news in but are confident that whatever David and Pasang decide for us it will be the right decision.
Saturday, 28 April 2012
Safely back at BC and my knee
We set off this morning from Camp Two at 5.45am (just after first light). For some reason I hadn't slept well. Despite not having an afternoon siesta and listening to my iPod until 10.00pm I then dozed on and off rather fitfully until the alarm went off at 4.30am.
We set off down the Western Cwm in solitude and admiring the grandeur of the scenery on our way to Camp One. It wasn't long before we saw a line of Sherpas heading towards us. After about 40 minutes we came to the scene of yesterday's avalanche (more on that tomorrow) and despite how recently it occurred a new trail had been formed through it.
On arriving at Camp One we swapped our walking poles for our helmets (which had been left in one of the tents) and then set off into the icefall once again. It wasn't long before the terrain had altered dramatically since our climb up just five days ago. A huge avalanche of ice had swelled down from near Lho La exposing the bedrock below. This was the avalanche that had obviously blocked the route a couple of days ago. Now there were new ladders in place and we had to pick our way through the debris. We didn't like hanging around here because there is plenty more to come down!
We then reached an area that is rather euphemistically called 'the football field' - not premiership you understand, more local community as it has a slope of about 15 degrees. It also boasts four crevaces that you have to jump across! Not sure how the greensman would mark out the pitch. However in comparison to the topsy turvey world of the rest of the icefall it is fairly flat.
Next comes some more avalanche debris (this is where the photo is taken). What you can't see in the picture is the seracs hanging above us!
We set off down the Western Cwm in solitude and admiring the grandeur of the scenery on our way to Camp One. It wasn't long before we saw a line of Sherpas heading towards us. After about 40 minutes we came to the scene of yesterday's avalanche (more on that tomorrow) and despite how recently it occurred a new trail had been formed through it.
On arriving at Camp One we swapped our walking poles for our helmets (which had been left in one of the tents) and then set off into the icefall once again. It wasn't long before the terrain had altered dramatically since our climb up just five days ago. A huge avalanche of ice had swelled down from near Lho La exposing the bedrock below. This was the avalanche that had obviously blocked the route a couple of days ago. Now there were new ladders in place and we had to pick our way through the debris. We didn't like hanging around here because there is plenty more to come down!
We then reached an area that is rather euphemistically called 'the football field' - not premiership you understand, more local community as it has a slope of about 15 degrees. It also boasts four crevaces that you have to jump across! Not sure how the greensman would mark out the pitch. However in comparison to the topsy turvey world of the rest of the icefall it is fairly flat.
Next comes some more avalanche debris (this is where the photo is taken). What you can't see in the picture is the seracs hanging above us!
Back to the icefall. Finally there is quite a steep section, up to 70 degrees, that lasts for about 45 minutes. Whilst you can see BC spread out before you, it's still at least an hour and a half away.
As the sun starts to beat down on us we take off a couple of layers and replace our helmets with our sun hats as we are now on safer ground.
Adam greets us with a full cooked breakfast which we wolf down. The journey has taken us four hours. It's great to be back at BC and I never thought I'd hear myself saying that!
We are scheduled to be here for another two days.
For those that know me well or for those who don't but have read my training page you'll know I've got quite severe arthritis in my left knee joint. How has this been affecting me?
You will have noticed that I've made no reference to it todate in any of my posts. Why?
Well to begin with the first two days trekking from Lukla were absolute hell and I thought that my attempt might literally be over before I started. I still don't understand why but it gradually improved over the following three or four days.
I wore Salomon trainers until the last two days before base camp when I wore lightweight trekking boots.
Since we've been operating out of base camp I've had no pain in ascent and some limited pain in decent. That's when I've been forced to take an overlery large step down or I've had to walk at an odd angle normally over avalanche debris.
The only thing that I can think of that is different here to the UK is the relative humidity which is approximately 10% over here in the mountains. I don't know whether any scientific studies have been carried out or not on the severity of arthritis and relative humidity but I'm very happy to put myself forward as a guinea pig for somewhere hot and arid right now!
Fingers crossed it continues to behave itself.
Friday, 27 April 2012
Another of David's rest days!
Some of you could probably tell from the length of yesterday's blog and it's rather matter of fact tone that I wasn't on best form. Well to be honest I felt dreadful. After lunch I had a splitting headache which a paracetamol would hide so late afternoon I had an Acetazolamide which thankfully by mid evening had done the trick.
We were due to have a rest day today, which I was most grateful for given the way I felt. So my heart sank when David announced after dinner that we would be going back up the glacier! The good news was that the 'ice doctors' have re-opened the route through the icefall.
Apparently after his trip last year a number of the team had said that they found getting used to the oxygen masks at Camp Three and above quite difficult despite having tried them on at BC.
At breakfast Mingma, one of our climbing sherpa's popped his head around the door of the mess tent to say hello. He had just climbed up from BC in four and a half hours carrying six 4 kg oxygen cylinders plus his own personal kit! Ten minutes later he was on his way back down again. Just staggering.
So David's plan was that this morning we would first put our oxygen masks and goggles on prior to putting on our harnesses and crampons. When wearing both of these your field of vision is severley restricted not just for the horizontal but more importantantly for the vertical plane. This makes it very difficult to do up your harness. Then to make it more realistic he gave us a 4 kg oxygen cylinder to carry in our packs! To be fair the additional weight didn't make that much difference.
We did get some very odd looks as we walked though camp. I'm sure they'll be some websites reporting that Jagged Globe are using oxygen from Camp Two! I wish.
We walked for about two thirds of the distance yesterday and I actually felt good which is encouraging. I'm not out in front but I'm very happy to be in the latter half as I know from past experience that climbing this mountain is a bit like a war of attrition. Everyday you are above 5500m your body is getting weaker and I intend to conserve my energy for the only day that counts - summit day.
So all in all a much better day than yesterday and I'm feeling good. Perhaps that's because we are back down to BC tomorrow. Next time we are back here we will be on our way to Camp Three.
Yesterday I finally found my toothbrush. Lesl, my sister in law and a dentist, will be horrified to learn that this afternoon will be the first time I've cleaned them since BC. Sorry to say personal hygiene is low on the list of priorities up here - at least it's cold!
Ps you didn't really want to know about yet another avalanche sweeping across the entire width of the glacier below us.
We were due to have a rest day today, which I was most grateful for given the way I felt. So my heart sank when David announced after dinner that we would be going back up the glacier! The good news was that the 'ice doctors' have re-opened the route through the icefall.
Apparently after his trip last year a number of the team had said that they found getting used to the oxygen masks at Camp Three and above quite difficult despite having tried them on at BC.
At breakfast Mingma, one of our climbing sherpa's popped his head around the door of the mess tent to say hello. He had just climbed up from BC in four and a half hours carrying six 4 kg oxygen cylinders plus his own personal kit! Ten minutes later he was on his way back down again. Just staggering.
So David's plan was that this morning we would first put our oxygen masks and goggles on prior to putting on our harnesses and crampons. When wearing both of these your field of vision is severley restricted not just for the horizontal but more importantantly for the vertical plane. This makes it very difficult to do up your harness. Then to make it more realistic he gave us a 4 kg oxygen cylinder to carry in our packs! To be fair the additional weight didn't make that much difference.
We did get some very odd looks as we walked though camp. I'm sure they'll be some websites reporting that Jagged Globe are using oxygen from Camp Two! I wish.
We walked for about two thirds of the distance yesterday and I actually felt good which is encouraging. I'm not out in front but I'm very happy to be in the latter half as I know from past experience that climbing this mountain is a bit like a war of attrition. Everyday you are above 5500m your body is getting weaker and I intend to conserve my energy for the only day that counts - summit day.
So all in all a much better day than yesterday and I'm feeling good. Perhaps that's because we are back down to BC tomorrow. Next time we are back here we will be on our way to Camp Three.
Yesterday I finally found my toothbrush. Lesl, my sister in law and a dentist, will be horrified to learn that this afternoon will be the first time I've cleaned them since BC. Sorry to say personal hygiene is low on the list of priorities up here - at least it's cold!
Ps you didn't really want to know about yet another avalanche sweeping across the entire width of the glacier below us.
Thursday, 26 April 2012
Up to the Bergschund
This morning breakfast was at 7.30am and then we set off at 8.00am to make our way to the foot of the Bergschund right at the foot of the Lhotse face.
We had heard Pasang getting up at 5.15am to join Conrad Anker and 14 other Sherpas to put in place the fixed ropes up the Lhotse face to Camp Three at circa 7300m.
The gradient was gentle to begin with but then gradually started to steepen as the glacier rises to meet the angle of the underlying rock at the head wall. Everybody's pace slowed to an absolute crawl. Not even a step at a time was managed, half a step was considered good if only a routine could be maintained. All I could hear was my breathing as if I was sprinting yet I was moving as slowly as a tortoise. After two hours and ten minutes David called it a day. We had reached where he had wanted us to get to approximately 6750m. Who knows how we are going to get to Camp Three when we carrying our big packs again?
The Lhotse face is going to be our next big challenge as we are all feeling the effects of the altitude whilst the face itself is 55-60 degree blue water ice that even crampons will struggle to get a purchase on. Thankfully that's another day I was just pleased to get back to Camp Two and rest!
We had heard Pasang getting up at 5.15am to join Conrad Anker and 14 other Sherpas to put in place the fixed ropes up the Lhotse face to Camp Three at circa 7300m.
The gradient was gentle to begin with but then gradually started to steepen as the glacier rises to meet the angle of the underlying rock at the head wall. Everybody's pace slowed to an absolute crawl. Not even a step at a time was managed, half a step was considered good if only a routine could be maintained. All I could hear was my breathing as if I was sprinting yet I was moving as slowly as a tortoise. After two hours and ten minutes David called it a day. We had reached where he had wanted us to get to approximately 6750m. Who knows how we are going to get to Camp Three when we carrying our big packs again?
The Lhotse face is going to be our next big challenge as we are all feeling the effects of the altitude whilst the face itself is 55-60 degree blue water ice that even crampons will struggle to get a purchase on. Thankfully that's another day I was just pleased to get back to Camp Two and rest!
Wednesday, 25 April 2012
A long night
After dinner last night which consisted of soup, Dahl Bat, and tinned fruit I was tucked up in my sleeping bag at seven thirty. Breakfast was at nine o'clock this morning! I decided to do some emails to my family before dropping off to sleep.
The sunlight struck the tent at around eight o'clock and we woke to find the tent covered in frozen condensation. I've had dryer kit sleeping in a snow hole! At least there you know you're going to get wet. By 8.30 it was too hot in the tent so I clambered out of my soggy sleeping bag (thankfully still warm) to the mess tent for a welcome cup of tea.
Just before 9.00am we were all up for breakfast which consisted of porridge (I've decided I really don't like porridge and now just call it 'calories' especially with the amount of sugar I put on it to make it bearable!). This was followed by beans on toast which was ok but everything, understandably, is served on metal plates, bowls and mugs for durability. The draw back is that food gets cold pretty swiftly.
At about 10.15am we set off up through the rest of Camp Two to see which other teams are currently here. Bearing in mind the number of teams at BC it's not surprising that Camp Two is spread out in a similar manner.
We're in the lower section of Camp Two which is where Jagged Globe have traditionally camped. It's meant to be slightly less windy and less avalanche prone. Having said that the hanging glacier behind us looks pretty huge! An advantage is that is saves half an hour on the walk from Camp One.
The views from the top of Camp Two are stunning. What look like near vertical impenetrable walls of ice and rock form the head of Western Cwm (also known as the Valley of Silence). Somehow our route picks its way up the Lhotse face, across the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur (evocative names to anyone who has read any of the numerous accounts on the South side of Everest). Whilst I can see the summit towering ominously above (another 2450m higher) from the rear of our tent we still can't see the South Col from where we will launch our summit bid.
I've taken a picture looking back down the Wester Cwm. Our tents are the red ones on the right and the wide open glacier leading down to Camp One is on the left.
The sunlight struck the tent at around eight o'clock and we woke to find the tent covered in frozen condensation. I've had dryer kit sleeping in a snow hole! At least there you know you're going to get wet. By 8.30 it was too hot in the tent so I clambered out of my soggy sleeping bag (thankfully still warm) to the mess tent for a welcome cup of tea.
Just before 9.00am we were all up for breakfast which consisted of porridge (I've decided I really don't like porridge and now just call it 'calories' especially with the amount of sugar I put on it to make it bearable!). This was followed by beans on toast which was ok but everything, understandably, is served on metal plates, bowls and mugs for durability. The draw back is that food gets cold pretty swiftly.
At about 10.15am we set off up through the rest of Camp Two to see which other teams are currently here. Bearing in mind the number of teams at BC it's not surprising that Camp Two is spread out in a similar manner.
We're in the lower section of Camp Two which is where Jagged Globe have traditionally camped. It's meant to be slightly less windy and less avalanche prone. Having said that the hanging glacier behind us looks pretty huge! An advantage is that is saves half an hour on the walk from Camp One.
The views from the top of Camp Two are stunning. What look like near vertical impenetrable walls of ice and rock form the head of Western Cwm (also known as the Valley of Silence). Somehow our route picks its way up the Lhotse face, across the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur (evocative names to anyone who has read any of the numerous accounts on the South side of Everest). Whilst I can see the summit towering ominously above (another 2450m higher) from the rear of our tent we still can't see the South Col from where we will launch our summit bid.
I've taken a picture looking back down the Wester Cwm. Our tents are the red ones on the right and the wide open glacier leading down to Camp One is on the left.
I'm sorry the quality isn't great but I'm limited by the reception on the satellite phone. The trouble is the satellites are orbiting around the earth all the time and the phone only gets a limited view of them from within a deep valley often for only a couple of minutes at a time. I need to be able to download everything at once otherwise I have to start all over again. Sometimes I can wait over half a hour to get a long enough connection.
My sleeping bag is now hanging over the top of our tent drying nicely.
I'm pleased to say feeling much better today after yesterday however I did take an Azetazolamide last night as I had a slight headache. It's seems to have done the trick.
All in all a nice day at Camp Two.
My sleeping bag is now hanging over the top of our tent drying nicely.
I'm pleased to say feeling much better today after yesterday however I did take an Azetazolamide last night as I had a slight headache. It's seems to have done the trick.
All in all a nice day at Camp Two.
Tuesday, 24 April 2012
Up to Camp Two
Having been lying in our sleeping bags since 6.00pm the previous evening it was a relief to hear the alarm go off at 5.00am. I had about two good bouts of sleep with an interrupted period between 10.00pm and midnight. At one stage in the early hours I thought the tent was literally going to take off so strong were the winds.
We set off in biting winds slightly later than planned. After the excitement (danger) of the icefall the walk up the Western Cwm is relatively straightforward and without too much inherent danger except for a few crevasses and a couple of ladder crossings.
I struggled today, whether it was my pack size or the cold I'm not sure but I was the penultimate one to reach Camp Two after two hours and forty five minutes.
On arrival we had some soup and hot squash after which I just crashed out in our tent. At least we are on rocky moraine here rather than on the glacier so the tent might be slightly warmer than Camp One.
Camp Two (circa 6350m) is the equivalent of Advanced Base Camp on the north side and the facilities are similar. We have a mess tent, two Nepalese cooks with their own cook tent, a storage tent and last but not least a toilet tent.
The one thing that is really hard to grasp is the scale of these mountains. As I look out of my tent across the Lhotse face I can see the site of Camp Three which is 900-1000m higher up yet it looks physically much closer and that is what is so daunting. To give you an idea Mount Snowdon is 1065m above sea level and for those who have climbed it will know how long it can take depending upon the route chosen. We have basically got to do the same but starting at sea level but with less than half the air pressure (hence oxygen), the only upside is that our 'cafe' will definitely be open when we get there!
That's it for today looking forward to a couple of hours rest before dinner at six.
I've sent out a Spot2 location message so you can hopefully see the exact position of our tent.
We set off in biting winds slightly later than planned. After the excitement (danger) of the icefall the walk up the Western Cwm is relatively straightforward and without too much inherent danger except for a few crevasses and a couple of ladder crossings.
I struggled today, whether it was my pack size or the cold I'm not sure but I was the penultimate one to reach Camp Two after two hours and forty five minutes.
On arrival we had some soup and hot squash after which I just crashed out in our tent. At least we are on rocky moraine here rather than on the glacier so the tent might be slightly warmer than Camp One.
Camp Two (circa 6350m) is the equivalent of Advanced Base Camp on the north side and the facilities are similar. We have a mess tent, two Nepalese cooks with their own cook tent, a storage tent and last but not least a toilet tent.
The one thing that is really hard to grasp is the scale of these mountains. As I look out of my tent across the Lhotse face I can see the site of Camp Three which is 900-1000m higher up yet it looks physically much closer and that is what is so daunting. To give you an idea Mount Snowdon is 1065m above sea level and for those who have climbed it will know how long it can take depending upon the route chosen. We have basically got to do the same but starting at sea level but with less than half the air pressure (hence oxygen), the only upside is that our 'cafe' will definitely be open when we get there!
That's it for today looking forward to a couple of hours rest before dinner at six.
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