We set off at one thirty am this morning back up through the ice fall. It felt warmer on the lower sections and amazingly we didn't hear any avalanches. I just climb steadily (slowly) ever upwards with just a small circle of light from my head torch roughly 18 inches in diameter lighting up the ground just ahead of my feet and showing me the heels of the person in front. Everything else is darkness.
The route is becoming familiar now as we begin to recognise different sections. What hasn't changed is the overall length.
Once past Camp One we are into the Western Cwm and it's now light. It's not long before the sun is scorching across the glacier and your body temperatures rises rapidly. You can see Camp Two in the distance and you face a dilemma: do you stop and take some layers off upsetting the rythym you've developed or do you struggle on thinking it can be no more than another 45 minutes. I chose the latter, arriving exhausted and dehydrated. Apart from porridge before setting off I'd only eaten one energy bar for the whole seven and a half hours. Why so little? A) it's extremely cold when you stop and B) you don't want to hang around on the icefall.
We've all spent the afternoon sleeping in our tents thankful that tomorrow is a rest day! How we will cope with three tough consequetive days only time will tell.
Showing posts with label Khumbu Icefall. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Khumbu Icefall. Show all posts
Wednesday, 16 May 2012
Tuesday, 8 May 2012
Return to Base Camp
We set off from Camp Two at 5.30am and walked down the Westen Cwm. It was a beautiful clear morning and we had the glacier to ourselves. In the distance the sun was rising over on Pumori whilst a cool wind drove against our backs having swept down the icy Lhotse face. It was one of those mornings to savour and well worth the discomfort of such an early start.
An hour earlier we had packed away and damp and ice rimmed sleeping bags, deflated our thermarests and tidied up our tents. All this just in case they get hit by an avalanche. Apparently it's easier to find your belongings if they are in stuff sacs.
We made it down to Camp One in about an hour and left our walking poles in the one tent we have remaining there and donned our helmets.
I was beginning to wonder were all the Sherpas where as by this stage we hadn't passed any which I thought odd. I needn't have fretted as within 45 minutes there was a steady stream of them slowly but surely making their way up through the ice fall.
An hour earlier we had packed away and damp and ice rimmed sleeping bags, deflated our thermarests and tidied up our tents. All this just in case they get hit by an avalanche. Apparently it's easier to find your belongings if they are in stuff sacs.
We made it down to Camp One in about an hour and left our walking poles in the one tent we have remaining there and donned our helmets.
I was beginning to wonder were all the Sherpas where as by this stage we hadn't passed any which I thought odd. I needn't have fretted as within 45 minutes there was a steady stream of them slowly but surely making their way up through the ice fall.
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| Photo of a triple ladder spanning a deep crevasse (top). A subsequent avalanche changed the route. I was standing on a snow bridge when I took it (not for long though!). |
David announced that we would be here for at least six days perhaps up to ten or twelve depending upon how the rope fixing and supply of Camp Four go. It also depends upon a suitable weather window. We do have the option of going down to one of the lower villages to enjoy some richer oxygenated air but I think most of us are going to stay here.
It's just below 5500m so our bodies shouldn't deteriorate and we are pretty well acclimatised to this height. Secondly Adam's food is much better than in the lodges.
We will make day trips to ensure we don't get 'bed sores' just lying around in BC.
Indeed after some much needed washing tomorrow I'm popping down to Gorak Shep to get some good Internet access and to perhaps add a couple of books to my Kindle.
David has said that we don't need to go back up to Camp Three before our summit bid as he would rather we all get as strong as possible ready for the 'toughest five days of your life!'.
Two or three days I know I can cope with. Five without adequate food and rehydration - well we will have to see.
So that leaves me with a bit of a quandary - how am I going to keep you interested in my endeavours when the next week or so is going to be spent here at BC? Suggestions please!
Personally I'm glad of the rest period as hopefully it'll allow me to get over my stomach bug.
Scary as it sounds the next time we venture up through the icefall we will hopefully be on our way to the summit!
Saturday, 28 April 2012
Safely back at BC and my knee
We set off this morning from Camp Two at 5.45am (just after first light). For some reason I hadn't slept well. Despite not having an afternoon siesta and listening to my iPod until 10.00pm I then dozed on and off rather fitfully until the alarm went off at 4.30am.
We set off down the Western Cwm in solitude and admiring the grandeur of the scenery on our way to Camp One. It wasn't long before we saw a line of Sherpas heading towards us. After about 40 minutes we came to the scene of yesterday's avalanche (more on that tomorrow) and despite how recently it occurred a new trail had been formed through it.
On arriving at Camp One we swapped our walking poles for our helmets (which had been left in one of the tents) and then set off into the icefall once again. It wasn't long before the terrain had altered dramatically since our climb up just five days ago. A huge avalanche of ice had swelled down from near Lho La exposing the bedrock below. This was the avalanche that had obviously blocked the route a couple of days ago. Now there were new ladders in place and we had to pick our way through the debris. We didn't like hanging around here because there is plenty more to come down!
We then reached an area that is rather euphemistically called 'the football field' - not premiership you understand, more local community as it has a slope of about 15 degrees. It also boasts four crevaces that you have to jump across! Not sure how the greensman would mark out the pitch. However in comparison to the topsy turvey world of the rest of the icefall it is fairly flat.
Next comes some more avalanche debris (this is where the photo is taken). What you can't see in the picture is the seracs hanging above us!
We set off down the Western Cwm in solitude and admiring the grandeur of the scenery on our way to Camp One. It wasn't long before we saw a line of Sherpas heading towards us. After about 40 minutes we came to the scene of yesterday's avalanche (more on that tomorrow) and despite how recently it occurred a new trail had been formed through it.
On arriving at Camp One we swapped our walking poles for our helmets (which had been left in one of the tents) and then set off into the icefall once again. It wasn't long before the terrain had altered dramatically since our climb up just five days ago. A huge avalanche of ice had swelled down from near Lho La exposing the bedrock below. This was the avalanche that had obviously blocked the route a couple of days ago. Now there were new ladders in place and we had to pick our way through the debris. We didn't like hanging around here because there is plenty more to come down!
We then reached an area that is rather euphemistically called 'the football field' - not premiership you understand, more local community as it has a slope of about 15 degrees. It also boasts four crevaces that you have to jump across! Not sure how the greensman would mark out the pitch. However in comparison to the topsy turvey world of the rest of the icefall it is fairly flat.
Next comes some more avalanche debris (this is where the photo is taken). What you can't see in the picture is the seracs hanging above us!
Back to the icefall. Finally there is quite a steep section, up to 70 degrees, that lasts for about 45 minutes. Whilst you can see BC spread out before you, it's still at least an hour and a half away.
As the sun starts to beat down on us we take off a couple of layers and replace our helmets with our sun hats as we are now on safer ground.
Adam greets us with a full cooked breakfast which we wolf down. The journey has taken us four hours. It's great to be back at BC and I never thought I'd hear myself saying that!
We are scheduled to be here for another two days.
For those that know me well or for those who don't but have read my training page you'll know I've got quite severe arthritis in my left knee joint. How has this been affecting me?
You will have noticed that I've made no reference to it todate in any of my posts. Why?
Well to begin with the first two days trekking from Lukla were absolute hell and I thought that my attempt might literally be over before I started. I still don't understand why but it gradually improved over the following three or four days.
I wore Salomon trainers until the last two days before base camp when I wore lightweight trekking boots.
Since we've been operating out of base camp I've had no pain in ascent and some limited pain in decent. That's when I've been forced to take an overlery large step down or I've had to walk at an odd angle normally over avalanche debris.
The only thing that I can think of that is different here to the UK is the relative humidity which is approximately 10% over here in the mountains. I don't know whether any scientific studies have been carried out or not on the severity of arthritis and relative humidity but I'm very happy to put myself forward as a guinea pig for somewhere hot and arid right now!
Fingers crossed it continues to behave itself.
Monday, 23 April 2012
Back up to Camp One
The alarm goes off at 1.30am and as I'm so comfortable I really don't want to get out of my sleeping bag. I have remind myself why I'm here and that it's not meant to be a holiday.
If feels slightly warmer this morning and my fingers remain warm as I dress. Even before getting to the mess tent I hear two avalanches, one on the Pumori side and another on the Lhotse side.
Things follow the usual pattern of breakfast then setting off to crampon point at the foot of the icefall the only difference this time is that we have larger packs.
After about an hour and a quarter there is the tell tale sound of an avalanche somewhere over to our left, but where? It's beyond the range of our head torches, everyone stops just in case it comes into view. Thankfully it passes us without incident.
Tonight it's extremely busy with Sherpas ferrying loads upto camp two and beyond. I never cease to be amazed by their stamina and speed. Whether its because we are stopping to let them pass or it's our heavier packs I feel we are going more slowly than before.
Starting at around 4.30am the night sky lightens imperceptibly at first as a new day dawns. The sky takes on a magical feel and we are able to switch off our head torches.
On the upper reaches of the ice fall there is evidence of a large avalanche that must have occurred since our last trip up. Its demolished our previous route and so we pick pur way across the new uneven ground.
If feels slightly warmer this morning and my fingers remain warm as I dress. Even before getting to the mess tent I hear two avalanches, one on the Pumori side and another on the Lhotse side.
Things follow the usual pattern of breakfast then setting off to crampon point at the foot of the icefall the only difference this time is that we have larger packs.
After about an hour and a quarter there is the tell tale sound of an avalanche somewhere over to our left, but where? It's beyond the range of our head torches, everyone stops just in case it comes into view. Thankfully it passes us without incident.
Tonight it's extremely busy with Sherpas ferrying loads upto camp two and beyond. I never cease to be amazed by their stamina and speed. Whether its because we are stopping to let them pass or it's our heavier packs I feel we are going more slowly than before.
Starting at around 4.30am the night sky lightens imperceptibly at first as a new day dawns. The sky takes on a magical feel and we are able to switch off our head torches.
On the upper reaches of the ice fall there is evidence of a large avalanche that must have occurred since our last trip up. Its demolished our previous route and so we pick pur way across the new uneven ground.
We then come to a double ladder crossing and sadly the site of where a Sherpa died two days ago. For the sake of speed he chose not to clip into the handrail. Unfortunately he fell into the crevasse. His body was recovered yesterday morning by helicopter.
Almost there now, we can see the tents tantalisingly in the distance but it's another 45 minutes before we reach them.
Almost there now, we can see the tents tantalisingly in the distance but it's another 45 minutes before we reach them.
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| Camp One, the red tents are ours, Pumori in the background |
Surprisingly when I check my watch on arrival it's 7.58 just five and a half hours since we left.
Brett is just a short distance behind me so after removing my crampons I collapse into our tent and get the stove on for us to have a hot drink.
It's sunny but much windier than last time. This made the trip through the ice fall quite cold but on the plus side let us hope we won't be having 35-40 degree c temperatures in the tent.
The plan for the rest of the day is to rest and sleep.
Talking of the wind, David told us yesterday evening that our mess tent at camp two has been flattened by the high winds. Apparently the winds have been much stronger up there. It means the Sherpas are having to bring that tent down to BC and carry our communications tent up to camp two before we arrive there tommorrow.
Brett is just a short distance behind me so after removing my crampons I collapse into our tent and get the stove on for us to have a hot drink.
It's sunny but much windier than last time. This made the trip through the ice fall quite cold but on the plus side let us hope we won't be having 35-40 degree c temperatures in the tent.
The plan for the rest of the day is to rest and sleep.
Talking of the wind, David told us yesterday evening that our mess tent at camp two has been flattened by the high winds. Apparently the winds have been much stronger up there. It means the Sherpas are having to bring that tent down to BC and carry our communications tent up to camp two before we arrive there tommorrow.
Sunday, 22 April 2012
The Ice Doctors
After yesterday's post can you believe it, I understand Victoria and Henrietta are arguing over who can have my car!
On a more serious note somebody must have a key stuck on their keyboard. Henrietta has told me that over 320 people are following this blog which has got to be a mistake - I've not got that many friends!
No in all honesty that's absolutely fantastic as although a lot of time goes into them (yes, hard to believe I know) I do enjoy writing them. The readership is almost global: UK naturally ,but also Germany, Australia, USA, Canada, Poland, Costa Rica, India, Russia and Singapore todate. Now if you think any of your friends or family would enjoy following my blog please tell them about it. It would be great to get to 500 or more. Many thanks.
It's a sunny morning here at BC but there is a biting wind making it uncomfortable to sit outside and enjoy the view. Thankfully it's warm in the tent as I intend to catch up on some sleep. For some reason I didn't sleep well last night.
Today is just for relaxing and preparing for tomorrow when we go to Camp one again. On Tuesday it's up to Camp two followed by a rest day there. On Thursday we make a sortie up to the bergschund at the bottom of the Lhotse face, whilst Friday is an acclimatisation day at Camp two before returning to BC early on Saturday morning. So we are away from BC for almost a week.
We've got to get all of our high altitude gear up to Camp two over the next two trips up as David wants our packs to be as light as possible for our third and final push to the summit.
Now to the work of the 'ice doctors'. As I've mentioned before their sole task is to maintain the fixed ropes and ladders through the icefall.
On our last trip down we saw five of them including the head of the team. Four of them had five or six foot ladders strapped horizontally across their backs which they were steadily taking up the icefall. We will see where they've been used tomorrow.
Along side all the ladder crossings are two fixed ropes either side of the ladder. These are used for clipping into to protect you should you fall off the ladder and also to act as handrails. The idea is that you'll just dangle a few feet into the crevasse rather than tumbling to the bottom never to be seen again. The trouble with using them as handrails is that you have to put some tension into ropes. Personally I think there are more for confidence rather than aiding balance. The ladders range from being horizontal to vertical depending upon the obstacle.
As the glacier moves at about 8cm a day, a) there is less of the ladder resting on the ice either side of the crevasse and b) the handrail ropes get closer and closer to the ground meaning you have to stoop down when crossing the ladders. So far the ladders have ranged from single to doubles strapped together at their midpoint. I understand that on previous years there have been as many as five ladders strapped together to span a particularly wide crevasse.
So the ice doctors are constantly having to adjust the existing ladders as well as forge a new route when an avalanche occurs.
On a more serious note somebody must have a key stuck on their keyboard. Henrietta has told me that over 320 people are following this blog which has got to be a mistake - I've not got that many friends!
No in all honesty that's absolutely fantastic as although a lot of time goes into them (yes, hard to believe I know) I do enjoy writing them. The readership is almost global: UK naturally ,but also Germany, Australia, USA, Canada, Poland, Costa Rica, India, Russia and Singapore todate. Now if you think any of your friends or family would enjoy following my blog please tell them about it. It would be great to get to 500 or more. Many thanks.
It's a sunny morning here at BC but there is a biting wind making it uncomfortable to sit outside and enjoy the view. Thankfully it's warm in the tent as I intend to catch up on some sleep. For some reason I didn't sleep well last night.
Today is just for relaxing and preparing for tomorrow when we go to Camp one again. On Tuesday it's up to Camp two followed by a rest day there. On Thursday we make a sortie up to the bergschund at the bottom of the Lhotse face, whilst Friday is an acclimatisation day at Camp two before returning to BC early on Saturday morning. So we are away from BC for almost a week.
We've got to get all of our high altitude gear up to Camp two over the next two trips up as David wants our packs to be as light as possible for our third and final push to the summit.
Now to the work of the 'ice doctors'. As I've mentioned before their sole task is to maintain the fixed ropes and ladders through the icefall.
On our last trip down we saw five of them including the head of the team. Four of them had five or six foot ladders strapped horizontally across their backs which they were steadily taking up the icefall. We will see where they've been used tomorrow.
Along side all the ladder crossings are two fixed ropes either side of the ladder. These are used for clipping into to protect you should you fall off the ladder and also to act as handrails. The idea is that you'll just dangle a few feet into the crevasse rather than tumbling to the bottom never to be seen again. The trouble with using them as handrails is that you have to put some tension into ropes. Personally I think there are more for confidence rather than aiding balance. The ladders range from being horizontal to vertical depending upon the obstacle.
As the glacier moves at about 8cm a day, a) there is less of the ladder resting on the ice either side of the crevasse and b) the handrail ropes get closer and closer to the ground meaning you have to stoop down when crossing the ladders. So far the ladders have ranged from single to doubles strapped together at their midpoint. I understand that on previous years there have been as many as five ladders strapped together to span a particularly wide crevasse.
So the ice doctors are constantly having to adjust the existing ladders as well as forge a new route when an avalanche occurs.
Friday, 20 April 2012
Descent from Camp One
As my Twitter of yesterday afternoon said - the weather changed! By 4.00 pm local time we were in a thick blizzard very reminiscent of a white out on the Cairngorm plateau but even colder. It passed after about two hours and after boiling some more water and eating some food Brett and I said good night at 6.45pm. It was a very long evening helped partially by listening to my iPod.
Well at 4.30 this morning it was completely pitch black when the alarm went off. Switching on the head torch revealed the whole of the inner tent covered in ice crystals from our breath. We quickly stuffed our damp sleeping bags and insulating mats away (unfortunately this won't do the down any good but I'm sure it'll dry when we are back up there in three days time).
I managed to get cold fingers again this morning (you can tell I'm a slow learner). By the time I'd put my crampons on they were numb. Thankfully I always carry some big mitts and after half a hour they were nice and toastie ( I think I can hear my parents tut tutting even from here!).
After such a good trip up yesterday I struggled today. I was able to keep up but I just felt exetremely lethargic. Whether it was the altitude, a poor nights sleep or dehydration I'm not sure. I suspect it's certainly the latter two as I've crtainly got signs of dehydration which I plan to attend to during the day. Also last night wasn't the most comfortable of nights sleep. As for the altitude I was short of breath during the evening so I had my first Azetazolomide of the trip (is this the start of a slippery slope?). This kicked in after about an hour and certainly helped. Unfortunately one side effect of the drug is an increase in urine production - not what you want when you are in a sleeping bag! There is a way around this of course, you have to have a suitable recepticle. Obviously it's got to have a wide mouth but also an adequate capacity. Unfortunately a litre isn't prooving sufficient!
We set off down through the ice fall at 5.45 am and wthout incident made it to BC three hours later as David had predicted. Once again I stopped and picked up my emails/twitter/Facebook updates. I know this is starting to sound like a stuck record but I do really appreciate all of your comments and good wishes.
After a full English breakfast (well almost if you like salami as opposed to bacon and tinned sausages - to be fair it was very tasty) David gave us a debrief: he was very pleased with our time up to camp one so much so we can have an extra half hour in bed so that when we go in three days time we will arrive just as the sun hits the tents! We will then progress the following day up to camp two for around four days.
After breakfast I collapsed back in my tent hoping to get some sleep before lunch but it was just too hot and stifling. I decided to do some washing and to get some more fluids down me. The best bit of the day is that we were due to be going back up in 40 hours time but David's decided to give us another rest day which is reflected in the timings I've already given. I'm so pleased!! After lunch I'm looking toward to an afternoon siesta as the clouds are already starting to bubble up lower down the valley.
Now the news you've all been waiting for: David says that if everything continues to go as it is and the weather is ok we could be looking at a summit bid of mid May. I can't give the exact date yet as we would like the summit to ourselves!
Well at 4.30 this morning it was completely pitch black when the alarm went off. Switching on the head torch revealed the whole of the inner tent covered in ice crystals from our breath. We quickly stuffed our damp sleeping bags and insulating mats away (unfortunately this won't do the down any good but I'm sure it'll dry when we are back up there in three days time).
I managed to get cold fingers again this morning (you can tell I'm a slow learner). By the time I'd put my crampons on they were numb. Thankfully I always carry some big mitts and after half a hour they were nice and toastie ( I think I can hear my parents tut tutting even from here!).
After such a good trip up yesterday I struggled today. I was able to keep up but I just felt exetremely lethargic. Whether it was the altitude, a poor nights sleep or dehydration I'm not sure. I suspect it's certainly the latter two as I've crtainly got signs of dehydration which I plan to attend to during the day. Also last night wasn't the most comfortable of nights sleep. As for the altitude I was short of breath during the evening so I had my first Azetazolomide of the trip (is this the start of a slippery slope?). This kicked in after about an hour and certainly helped. Unfortunately one side effect of the drug is an increase in urine production - not what you want when you are in a sleeping bag! There is a way around this of course, you have to have a suitable recepticle. Obviously it's got to have a wide mouth but also an adequate capacity. Unfortunately a litre isn't prooving sufficient!
We set off down through the ice fall at 5.45 am and wthout incident made it to BC three hours later as David had predicted. Once again I stopped and picked up my emails/twitter/Facebook updates. I know this is starting to sound like a stuck record but I do really appreciate all of your comments and good wishes.
After a full English breakfast (well almost if you like salami as opposed to bacon and tinned sausages - to be fair it was very tasty) David gave us a debrief: he was very pleased with our time up to camp one so much so we can have an extra half hour in bed so that when we go in three days time we will arrive just as the sun hits the tents! We will then progress the following day up to camp two for around four days.
After breakfast I collapsed back in my tent hoping to get some sleep before lunch but it was just too hot and stifling. I decided to do some washing and to get some more fluids down me. The best bit of the day is that we were due to be going back up in 40 hours time but David's decided to give us another rest day which is reflected in the timings I've already given. I'm so pleased!! After lunch I'm looking toward to an afternoon siesta as the clouds are already starting to bubble up lower down the valley.
Now the news you've all been waiting for: David says that if everything continues to go as it is and the weather is ok we could be looking at a summit bid of mid May. I can't give the exact date yet as we would like the summit to ourselves!
Thursday, 19 April 2012
Camp one in just over five hours
We made it to camp one which is at an altitude of 6100m at 7. 25am this morning after setting off at 2.00am.
The sun hit our tents which had already been pitched for us by the Sherpas approximately 30 minutes later. It's currently over 40 degrees Celsius in our tent. All we want to do is sleep yet it's just far too hot. To make matters worse there is no breeze! We are literally cooking like a boil in the bag meal. Having said that it must get windy here as the Sherpas have tied the tents down with rope in addition to the usual guy lines.
I've given up trying to sleep hence I thought I'd have a go at the blog.
The climb up through the ice field was thankfully undramatic except for an area that had obviously avalanched yesterday and we had to pick our way around it. Most haunting was seeing a section of fixed rope buried beneath a rectangular block of ice that was easily the size of a minibus. Nobody would have stood a chance.
Above the icefield the ground flattens out into the Western Cwm, the valley that leads upto the Lhotse face. The scenery is absolutely stunning. I just hope the photos do it all justice.
From our camp we can see the site of camp three high on the Lhotse face at 7300m and then the line of the route to the south col. The summit of Everest is peering ominously down on us. Pasang says that camp two is about another three hours up the valley but it's hidden from view by the terrain.
Once we reached camp one we unpacked our gear and ate some snacks. Brett who I am sharing a tent with has kindly melted 5 litres of snow, roughly half what we need to drink to stay rehydrated. My turn later.
The view out of the front of the tent is across a wide snow capped glacier across to Pumori. Compared to base camp it's so tranquil. There's not a sound.
We all seem to have coped well with the increase in altitude though I have a slight headache. Probably dehydration or the intense heat.
I'm rapidly praying for some wind as Brett's threatening to strip down to his underwear!
Sorry to say its too hot for any humour today - what a relief I hear you say!
The sun hit our tents which had already been pitched for us by the Sherpas approximately 30 minutes later. It's currently over 40 degrees Celsius in our tent. All we want to do is sleep yet it's just far too hot. To make matters worse there is no breeze! We are literally cooking like a boil in the bag meal. Having said that it must get windy here as the Sherpas have tied the tents down with rope in addition to the usual guy lines.
I've given up trying to sleep hence I thought I'd have a go at the blog.
The climb up through the ice field was thankfully undramatic except for an area that had obviously avalanched yesterday and we had to pick our way around it. Most haunting was seeing a section of fixed rope buried beneath a rectangular block of ice that was easily the size of a minibus. Nobody would have stood a chance.
Above the icefield the ground flattens out into the Western Cwm, the valley that leads upto the Lhotse face. The scenery is absolutely stunning. I just hope the photos do it all justice.
From our camp we can see the site of camp three high on the Lhotse face at 7300m and then the line of the route to the south col. The summit of Everest is peering ominously down on us. Pasang says that camp two is about another three hours up the valley but it's hidden from view by the terrain.
Once we reached camp one we unpacked our gear and ate some snacks. Brett who I am sharing a tent with has kindly melted 5 litres of snow, roughly half what we need to drink to stay rehydrated. My turn later.
The view out of the front of the tent is across a wide snow capped glacier across to Pumori. Compared to base camp it's so tranquil. There's not a sound.
We all seem to have coped well with the increase in altitude though I have a slight headache. Probably dehydration or the intense heat.
I'm rapidly praying for some wind as Brett's threatening to strip down to his underwear!
Sorry to say its too hot for any humour today - what a relief I hear you say!
Tuesday, 17 April 2012
2.00am wake up call
Before I tell you about today's trip through the ice fall firstly can I thank all of you who have either sent me a Tweet or an email. I do enjoy reading them. Unfortunately it's difficult to reply because as you already know there's no mobile signal at BC. I was able to pick them up as I noticed when we descended the icefall last time that at one point which is flat and also not beneath any seracs, there is a direct line of sight with Gorak Shep where the 3G mast is. It doesn't take too long to download the messages but I think David might get a bit fed up if I asked the team to wait whilst I replied!
Do check out the interactive Spot2 page as I set it off this morning.
This morning we set our alarms for 2.00am which David assures us is the earliest we will ever need to (apart from summit day). It was much windier than a couple of days ago which helped to lift the temperature by a few degrees. I also wore some warmer gloves so getting to the mess tent by 2.30 seemed a bit easier (either that or I'm getting used to the discomfort - frankly after this trip there really is no excuse to have the heating on at home).
Well you won't be surprised to learn that trip through the ice was very similar to two days ago except that we went higher.
I'm pleased to report we didn't encounter or hear a single avalanche until we were back at BC and even that was well off our route below Lho La.
At one point just before the ice steepens to circa 55 degrees I looked up and all I could see was a line of head torches criss crossing the ice much like white Christmas tree lights draped across a High Street. It looked like an army of worker ants but with head torches. Indeed the Sherpas are just like ants taking it in turns to carry vast loads for our comfort and safety ever higher up the mountain.
The Sherpas are paid by a combination of weight (normally no more than 15 kg) and size. I even saw a Sherpa carrying a large propane gas cylinder up. I understand that the going rate is 25 us dollars a carry up to camp two (higher rates apply higher up). Very little by Western standards but a lot by Nepaese standards. To protect their wellbeng they are not meant to carry more than 15 kg but I suspect much like the European Working Time Directive they can opt out. It is not uncommon to see them carrying double loads.
Unlike the porters lower down the valley who are very ill equipped in terms of footwear ( ie plymsoles or flip flops!) and clothing the Sherpas on Everest get a very generous equipment allowance and they are all as well kitted out as us.
The only other thing of note was that one section higher up is just like an upturned box of Lego that has to be the site of an avalanche. Whether it's this year's or last, I don't know. All I can say it's extremely slow to cross!
Tomorrow is a rest day before we head up for our first night at camp one so I thought I'd tell you abut about BC and how it compares with the North side. If you've got any burning questions just post a comment and Henrietta will pass it on. You can ask to remain anonymous if you wish!
Do check out the interactive Spot2 page as I set it off this morning.
This morning we set our alarms for 2.00am which David assures us is the earliest we will ever need to (apart from summit day). It was much windier than a couple of days ago which helped to lift the temperature by a few degrees. I also wore some warmer gloves so getting to the mess tent by 2.30 seemed a bit easier (either that or I'm getting used to the discomfort - frankly after this trip there really is no excuse to have the heating on at home).
Well you won't be surprised to learn that trip through the ice was very similar to two days ago except that we went higher.
I'm pleased to report we didn't encounter or hear a single avalanche until we were back at BC and even that was well off our route below Lho La.
At one point just before the ice steepens to circa 55 degrees I looked up and all I could see was a line of head torches criss crossing the ice much like white Christmas tree lights draped across a High Street. It looked like an army of worker ants but with head torches. Indeed the Sherpas are just like ants taking it in turns to carry vast loads for our comfort and safety ever higher up the mountain.
The Sherpas are paid by a combination of weight (normally no more than 15 kg) and size. I even saw a Sherpa carrying a large propane gas cylinder up. I understand that the going rate is 25 us dollars a carry up to camp two (higher rates apply higher up). Very little by Western standards but a lot by Nepaese standards. To protect their wellbeng they are not meant to carry more than 15 kg but I suspect much like the European Working Time Directive they can opt out. It is not uncommon to see them carrying double loads.
Unlike the porters lower down the valley who are very ill equipped in terms of footwear ( ie plymsoles or flip flops!) and clothing the Sherpas on Everest get a very generous equipment allowance and they are all as well kitted out as us.
The only other thing of note was that one section higher up is just like an upturned box of Lego that has to be the site of an avalanche. Whether it's this year's or last, I don't know. All I can say it's extremely slow to cross!
Tomorrow is a rest day before we head up for our first night at camp one so I thought I'd tell you abut about BC and how it compares with the North side. If you've got any burning questions just post a comment and Henrietta will pass it on. You can ask to remain anonymous if you wish!
Sunday, 15 April 2012
Sunday 15th
Ah well this is round two at today's post! I've just lost nearly two hours of single finger typing on this damn phone! I was about to bore you with the longest post yet (so perhaps there is a God up there). Anyway here we go again. It's going to be a very long night for me.
I'm lying awake in my sleeping bag and my watch says 3.20am, another 40 minutes until the alarm goes off. Nervous anticipation prevents me from dropping back off to sleep. Four o'clock arrives and I give myself just another couple of minutes to enjoy the warmth of my sleeping bag that has cocooned me for the last six hours. Right, it's got to be done and in one long sweeping movement I undo the zip on my bag and within a millionth of a second all that warm air has been replaced by what feels like a blast of freezing Siberian air.
The race is on! I slip on a pair of lightweight gloves to prevent my fingers from going numb. First it's my thick socks, then my walking trousers, straight over my thermals (must keep moving to try and stay warm), another thermal top quickly followed by two more jackets. Almost there, just my double boots to go - too late I've lost the race my fingers are numb. Despite having added pull tags to my boots my hands are little more than clubs as I struggle to pull them tight. Lesson learnt: thicker gloves next time!
(Well its now 21.45 Nepalese time, we've had dinner and watched a film called ' Dejavu'. Quite apt bearing in mind what's happened. Oh and it's -11.8 in the tent. The things I do for you guys!)
I pick up my pack and stumble into the mess tent. Most of the team are already there. No one is talking and everybody looks chilly. I force down some porridge not because I want to but because it's fuel for what lies ahead. Then a porter brings in a large frying pan of plain omelettes. Who ordered these we ask? With a broad grin the porter replies 'good food, make strong for mountain'. So I force one down more out of graditude than desire. Much like after imbibing too many lime cordials on a Saturday night, come Sunday morning you know you should eat something. (especially adapted for the Duchy and St Catherine's schools- see I am trying!).
I've blown the budget and included a photo of a ladder crossing to whet your appetite.
I'm lying awake in my sleeping bag and my watch says 3.20am, another 40 minutes until the alarm goes off. Nervous anticipation prevents me from dropping back off to sleep. Four o'clock arrives and I give myself just another couple of minutes to enjoy the warmth of my sleeping bag that has cocooned me for the last six hours. Right, it's got to be done and in one long sweeping movement I undo the zip on my bag and within a millionth of a second all that warm air has been replaced by what feels like a blast of freezing Siberian air.
The race is on! I slip on a pair of lightweight gloves to prevent my fingers from going numb. First it's my thick socks, then my walking trousers, straight over my thermals (must keep moving to try and stay warm), another thermal top quickly followed by two more jackets. Almost there, just my double boots to go - too late I've lost the race my fingers are numb. Despite having added pull tags to my boots my hands are little more than clubs as I struggle to pull them tight. Lesson learnt: thicker gloves next time!
(Well its now 21.45 Nepalese time, we've had dinner and watched a film called ' Dejavu'. Quite apt bearing in mind what's happened. Oh and it's -11.8 in the tent. The things I do for you guys!)
I pick up my pack and stumble into the mess tent. Most of the team are already there. No one is talking and everybody looks chilly. I force down some porridge not because I want to but because it's fuel for what lies ahead. Then a porter brings in a large frying pan of plain omelettes. Who ordered these we ask? With a broad grin the porter replies 'good food, make strong for mountain'. So I force one down more out of graditude than desire. Much like after imbibing too many lime cordials on a Saturday night, come Sunday morning you know you should eat something. (especially adapted for the Duchy and St Catherine's schools- see I am trying!).
I've blown the budget and included a photo of a ladder crossing to whet your appetite.
We left the mess tent in silence so as not to disturb other people as we picked our way through the morraine and the other camps to the bottom of the icefall. This was rather futile as every time we walked over some frozen water it would crack and shatter. Alternatively your boots would slide from underneath you as the thin covering of rocks gave way to reveal the ice below. I'd curse at the wasted energy.
Once at 'crampon point' we would don our harnesses and crampons and make our way onto the sea of ice. Initially the wave of ice are quite gentle much like the tide coming in at a wide sandy bay but soon these ripples grow into huge waves that tower 60 feet above you.
The icefall extends over 700 m in altitude and probably a mile and half in distance. A crack team of Sherpas dubbed the 'ice doctors' have the unenviable task of not only setting a route through this maze of ice and snow but also maintaining the numerous ladders that have been installed to cross the crevaces. They will also re route the trail through the ice as it shifts over the coming weeks and as avalanches block the route. This is without doubt one of the most dangerous points on the route and why most people choose to travel through it at night when the temperatures are lowest. The ' ice doctors' are funded by most of the large teams including Jagged Globe.
As we travelled up through it a number of the team had their first experience of crossing ladders. Now a single ladder placed across a crevace is fairly simple to cross when horizontal. Add an angle whether up or down and it becomes more tricky as you try gage where your crampon teeth will best fit on or between the rungs. Things get even more interesting when two or three ladders are strapped together!
I turned around to see base camp still in shadow yet beyond was the backdrop of Pumori with the sun reflecting off its snowy flanks bathed in a clear blue sky. What could be more stunning? Suddenly there is the typical 'whoomf' sound of an avalanche that we have become accustomed to hearing over the last week. But this time it's close, very close! A quick glance up reveals nothing. I look around for a place of refuge. The noise, it's getting louder but from which direction? Then off to our right approximately 150m away we see a plume of snow and ice cascading down below. Thankfully the ' ice doctors' had chosen the right route - this time.
Being at BC you get to hear of and sometimes meet some very famous names in climbing: yesterday it was Victor Saunders, before that it was Russell Brice. We also understand that Uli Steck (of two and a half hours up the north face of the Eiger fame) is also coming to BC.
Well today whilst climbing through an area of the ice fall known as the 'pop corn' because that is what the ice looks like I was caught up by a gentleman who I recognised. Now this will make Henrietta my youngest daughter very jealous, but it was none other than Kenton Kool who is hoping to make his tenth summit this season. We exchanged pleasantries and shook hands (I didn't think it was the place to ask for his autograph H!).
We continued climbing up until about 8.00am and I felt alive. The climbing was steep, every foot placement into the snow and ice had to be right. My breathing was under control - fast but not laboured. The adrenaline was flowing through me and for the first time on the trip I knew I had done the right thing by coming back for a second attempt. Perhaps I could finally put the demons that have played on my mind since my last attempt two years ago finally to rest. If only I can stay fit and healthy.
We turned around having covered about 30% of the ice fall and were back in camp for 9.30 am. Our next foray should take us to nearer 60% before we travel all the way through to sleep at camp one.
The rest of the day was spent showering and doing some washing.
Once at 'crampon point' we would don our harnesses and crampons and make our way onto the sea of ice. Initially the wave of ice are quite gentle much like the tide coming in at a wide sandy bay but soon these ripples grow into huge waves that tower 60 feet above you.
The icefall extends over 700 m in altitude and probably a mile and half in distance. A crack team of Sherpas dubbed the 'ice doctors' have the unenviable task of not only setting a route through this maze of ice and snow but also maintaining the numerous ladders that have been installed to cross the crevaces. They will also re route the trail through the ice as it shifts over the coming weeks and as avalanches block the route. This is without doubt one of the most dangerous points on the route and why most people choose to travel through it at night when the temperatures are lowest. The ' ice doctors' are funded by most of the large teams including Jagged Globe.
As we travelled up through it a number of the team had their first experience of crossing ladders. Now a single ladder placed across a crevace is fairly simple to cross when horizontal. Add an angle whether up or down and it becomes more tricky as you try gage where your crampon teeth will best fit on or between the rungs. Things get even more interesting when two or three ladders are strapped together!
I turned around to see base camp still in shadow yet beyond was the backdrop of Pumori with the sun reflecting off its snowy flanks bathed in a clear blue sky. What could be more stunning? Suddenly there is the typical 'whoomf' sound of an avalanche that we have become accustomed to hearing over the last week. But this time it's close, very close! A quick glance up reveals nothing. I look around for a place of refuge. The noise, it's getting louder but from which direction? Then off to our right approximately 150m away we see a plume of snow and ice cascading down below. Thankfully the ' ice doctors' had chosen the right route - this time.
Being at BC you get to hear of and sometimes meet some very famous names in climbing: yesterday it was Victor Saunders, before that it was Russell Brice. We also understand that Uli Steck (of two and a half hours up the north face of the Eiger fame) is also coming to BC.
Well today whilst climbing through an area of the ice fall known as the 'pop corn' because that is what the ice looks like I was caught up by a gentleman who I recognised. Now this will make Henrietta my youngest daughter very jealous, but it was none other than Kenton Kool who is hoping to make his tenth summit this season. We exchanged pleasantries and shook hands (I didn't think it was the place to ask for his autograph H!).
We continued climbing up until about 8.00am and I felt alive. The climbing was steep, every foot placement into the snow and ice had to be right. My breathing was under control - fast but not laboured. The adrenaline was flowing through me and for the first time on the trip I knew I had done the right thing by coming back for a second attempt. Perhaps I could finally put the demons that have played on my mind since my last attempt two years ago finally to rest. If only I can stay fit and healthy.
We turned around having covered about 30% of the ice fall and were back in camp for 9.30 am. Our next foray should take us to nearer 60% before we travel all the way through to sleep at camp one.
The rest of the day was spent showering and doing some washing.
Saturday, 14 April 2012
Big Mitts
This morning we went into the lower reaches of the icefall again and practiced our jumaring and abseiling. Pasang and Mingma had set up a course over the seracs that we each had to complete three times wearing different sized gloves. The last being big mitts. Trying to grip your ascender or screw a karabiner closed with these on is nye on impossible!
Just after lunch Jeremy appeared at the door of the mess tent bearing gifts. Well actually a couple of things my parents had sent out (a bottle of whiskey would have been better!). He also kindly brought me some chocolate. I suppose it's only right that I give him a plug. He is without doubt the best optician in the South West. Look up Jeremy Savage Optometrist, Tiverton. (I was going to put a quip in here but that would be little what I've just said. I just take the free spectacles!)
He and his friend Rob had left Lobuche at 7.00am this morning to reach BC. Needless to say Jeremy looked out of breath much as we did when we first arrived a week ago. Rob had decided not to come to our camp instead choosing to return with their guide to Gorak Shep where they will be spending the night. They hope to climb Island Peak and Lobuche peak in the coming week or so.
I've spent the afternoon preparing my kit for tomorrows early start (4.00 am!) as we venture further into the icefall before the temperature rises too much. If I remember I'll switch on my Spot2 so you can see how far we get. We should be back at BC by 11.00am Nepalese time so you'll probably all still be in bed!!
It was Cians' birthday yesterday and Adam did a fantastic job of preparing an excellent chocolate cake with hot chocolate sauce.
Last night we watched 'Killer Mountain'. If you thought Cliffhanger and Vertical Limits are poor climbing films this film is postively dreadful. It just makes you wonder where people get the money to make such third rate rubbish - mind you we watched it!!!
Well that's it for another day except to say its snowing very heavily at the moment with snow sliding off the sides of my tent like mini avalanches. The upside is perhaps it won't be too cold when we get up tomorrow morning.
Just after lunch Jeremy appeared at the door of the mess tent bearing gifts. Well actually a couple of things my parents had sent out (a bottle of whiskey would have been better!). He also kindly brought me some chocolate. I suppose it's only right that I give him a plug. He is without doubt the best optician in the South West. Look up Jeremy Savage Optometrist, Tiverton. (I was going to put a quip in here but that would be little what I've just said. I just take the free spectacles!)
He and his friend Rob had left Lobuche at 7.00am this morning to reach BC. Needless to say Jeremy looked out of breath much as we did when we first arrived a week ago. Rob had decided not to come to our camp instead choosing to return with their guide to Gorak Shep where they will be spending the night. They hope to climb Island Peak and Lobuche peak in the coming week or so.
I've spent the afternoon preparing my kit for tomorrows early start (4.00 am!) as we venture further into the icefall before the temperature rises too much. If I remember I'll switch on my Spot2 so you can see how far we get. We should be back at BC by 11.00am Nepalese time so you'll probably all still be in bed!!
It was Cians' birthday yesterday and Adam did a fantastic job of preparing an excellent chocolate cake with hot chocolate sauce.
Last night we watched 'Killer Mountain'. If you thought Cliffhanger and Vertical Limits are poor climbing films this film is postively dreadful. It just makes you wonder where people get the money to make such third rate rubbish - mind you we watched it!!!
Well that's it for another day except to say its snowing very heavily at the moment with snow sliding off the sides of my tent like mini avalanches. The upside is perhaps it won't be too cold when we get up tomorrow morning.
Thursday, 12 April 2012
Day 5 at BC
Well we've been in BC for five days now and thankfully moving around the camp and across the moraines has got ever so slightly easier. Whether this is a sign that I am slowly acclimatising or more likely I've learnt to move more slowly!
Life in BC revolves around meal times so much so you could almost set your clock by them. Adam our BC manager and chef has done an excellent job at producing a very varied and filling menu to date (we've only had Dahl Bat once since arriving here). Last nights Yak stew with mash pototoes and green beans was superb but it was surpassed by the dessert. He had said that he had tried to make some chocolate brownie during the afternoon but it hadn't worked. So imagine our delight when he produced chocolate brownie crumble and custard. There must have been 1000 calories a serving! No one uttered a word until our bowls were empty.
Today we had another three hour foray into the icefall this time venturing another 100m higher. The sun was beating down and those of us wearing black really suffered in the heat. (Unfortunately that's really the only colour I've brought as it hides the dirt so well).
On our return whilst drinking hot squash (sounds odd but very thirst quenching) we witnessed a large avalanche cascading down the western face of Lho La just above BC. The snow and ice was falling for at least five minutes. We're grateful for being near the middle of the Camp!
Once again the afternoon was spent either reading or sleeping. I'm amazed at how much I am sleeping and wonder whether this is a result of the lack of oxygen or the physical effort of moving around. Perhaps it's a combination of both.
To give you an idea of how dry things are (which seems odd given the amount of snow and ice around and beneath us) my thermometer says the humidity is 10% outside and currently -4 (@17.40 local time). At home I doubt it rarely drops below 50%.
Well that's the end of another exciting installment of life at Everest BC!
(now I wonder what's for dinner-all we know is it's chicken, not that I've seen any since Namche Bazaar).
Life in BC revolves around meal times so much so you could almost set your clock by them. Adam our BC manager and chef has done an excellent job at producing a very varied and filling menu to date (we've only had Dahl Bat once since arriving here). Last nights Yak stew with mash pototoes and green beans was superb but it was surpassed by the dessert. He had said that he had tried to make some chocolate brownie during the afternoon but it hadn't worked. So imagine our delight when he produced chocolate brownie crumble and custard. There must have been 1000 calories a serving! No one uttered a word until our bowls were empty.
Today we had another three hour foray into the icefall this time venturing another 100m higher. The sun was beating down and those of us wearing black really suffered in the heat. (Unfortunately that's really the only colour I've brought as it hides the dirt so well).
On our return whilst drinking hot squash (sounds odd but very thirst quenching) we witnessed a large avalanche cascading down the western face of Lho La just above BC. The snow and ice was falling for at least five minutes. We're grateful for being near the middle of the Camp!
Once again the afternoon was spent either reading or sleeping. I'm amazed at how much I am sleeping and wonder whether this is a result of the lack of oxygen or the physical effort of moving around. Perhaps it's a combination of both.
To give you an idea of how dry things are (which seems odd given the amount of snow and ice around and beneath us) my thermometer says the humidity is 10% outside and currently -4 (@17.40 local time). At home I doubt it rarely drops below 50%.
Well that's the end of another exciting installment of life at Everest BC!
(now I wonder what's for dinner-all we know is it's chicken, not that I've seen any since Namche Bazaar).
Wednesday, 11 April 2012
A morning on the icefall
This morning we all put on our high altitude double boots for the first time and walked over to the icefall to practice putting on our crampons with different thickness of gloves. In addition we practiced our crampon technique: front pointing, traversing and descending.
Despite only being out for just over two hours we were all exhausted!
Despite only being out for just over two hours we were all exhausted!
Our plan for the next four days is similar with the aim of going apprx 30% up the icefall on Sunday before our Puja ceremony on Monday. We then hope to climb approx 60% of the icefall on Tuesday with our first foray up to Camp 1 next Thursday . Well that's the current plan subject to the weather. Highlight of the day for me was a satellite call with my two daughters, Victoria and Henrietta. It was great to hear their voices.
I am writing this in the mess tent whilst we wait for dinner which I understand is Yak stew and mash. Four of the team are playing cards, one is reading his kindle and a couple are chatting. We've got a small propane gas heater that struggles to keep the temperature above freezing. The evenings film choice is very democratically decided: each evening we take it in turn to choose three films and then we vote on which of the three we would each like to watch. Tonight it's 'Million Dollar Baby with Clint Eastwood'.
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