Tuesday 1 May 2012

Camp two postponed again

If you have read my earlier post regarding the condition of the Lhotse face you'll know it's not good (if you haven't I suggest you read that first and then return to this post).

The current position is that the main Teams have decided that the current route is too dangerous. Apparently one Sherpa has 10 stitches in his head after a rock completely smashed his helmet and a Russian has a broken arm.

A team of Western guides are going to recee the face and try and find a safer alternative to the right of the normal route tomorrow. It is currently thought that the existing position of Camp Three is as safe/unsafe as previous years depending upon your perspective.

Once found, ropes will need to be fixed again which will take another day or so. The upshot is that we will spend another day here in BC. To be fair it's much more comfortable down here.

I think everyone will appreciate that this has got to be the right way forward. What is slightly alarming is that apparently some of the smaller teams are still continuing to use the current route.

Actually now might be a good time to explain the organising of the fixed ropes.

In the past it used to be a very adhoc arrangement between the larger teams who would agree amongst themselves which part of the mountain they would fix. The smaller teams would basically just catch a ride and not make any contribution.

When Russell Brice moved over from the North side (he operates one of the largest and most comprehensive expeditions on Everest - and most expensive) he got all of the teams together. Basically every team at BC has to use a Nepalese tourist registered trekking company. They each pay Russell a pro rata amount dependent upon team size for 10,000m of new 10mm static rope, I don't know how many new ice screws and stakes but it will be in the hundreds if not thousands that are purchased, I understand, new each year from the USA.

Russell then calls a meeting of all the teams to organise the logistics of getting all of this kit up to Camp Two (the ropes come in 200m lengths - for those who know how much a 50m rope weighs imagine having to carry four of them) as well as the allocation of Sherpas to fix the routes. This way all teams make a fair contribution.

We all hope that a suitable safe route is found and that there are no more injuries. Another day or so here at BC is a very small price for us to pay.

On a unrelated point the Lhotse team returned from Camp Two this morning and said how cold and windy it had been. They had also seen a helicopter practising a landing and take off which is great testament to the skill of the pilot at 6400m. Reassuring if ever a medical evacuation is needed.

3 comments:

  1. Your blogs make very, very worrying reading for us back in the UK. Hope climbers and Sherpas manage to curb frayed nerves and tempers! It must be very frustrating hanging around waiting to get on with the climb. We all wish you well and hope all on Everest stay safe. Cheers Kate ( UK )

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  2. Ian - I am loving the blog and your dedication to detail. Wishing you all the very, very, very best of luck and I will continue to live vicariously through your adventures. Fingers crossed the wind settles a bit too!! Heather ;-)

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    1. Thanks Heather, pleased you are enjoying the blog.
      Ian

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