This morning breakfast was at 7.30am and then we set off at 8.00am to make our way to the foot of the Bergschund right at the foot of the Lhotse face.
We had heard Pasang getting up at 5.15am to join Conrad Anker and 14 other Sherpas to put in place the fixed ropes up the Lhotse face to Camp Three at circa 7300m.
The gradient was gentle to begin with but then gradually started to steepen as the glacier rises to meet the angle of the underlying rock at the head wall. Everybody's pace slowed to an absolute crawl. Not even a step at a time was managed, half a step was considered good if only a routine could be maintained. All I could hear was my breathing as if I was sprinting yet I was moving as slowly as a tortoise. After two hours and ten minutes David called it a day. We had reached where he had wanted us to get to approximately 6750m. Who knows how we are going to get to Camp Three when we carrying our big packs again?
The Lhotse face is going to be our next big challenge as we are all feeling the effects of the altitude whilst the face itself is 55-60 degree blue water ice that even crampons will struggle to get a purchase on. Thankfully that's another day I was just pleased to get back to Camp Two and rest!
Dear Ian
ReplyDeleteOnly just catching up with your blog having just got back from Japan (summited Mount Aso 1592m)!! - loving it! Your love letter to Caroline made me cry! But a bit worried about the sibling rivalry though!!!!!!
Whats that drug you took for your headache - is it for altitude?
It is amazing how real you are making it all sound - can't wait to see the pictures- I wish you all the very best of luck, you're going to make it I have no doubt
Love
Julie
Hi Ian. I can't imagine how tough this climb is but reading your blog posts is bringing the day to day struggle to life as what's involved in attempting to reach the summit. Glad to see steady progress is being maintained.
ReplyDeleteStay safe.
Al
Forgot to say that as you mentioned Conrad Anker I have just come across a good National geographic video about his upcoming Summit Attempt. It also gives some good graphics on the route and camps that I guess you are following. http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/everest/overview?source=link_tw20120418ngm-everestintro I guess you won't be able to see it by might be of interest to others.
ReplyDeleteAl